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Routes in La Saphir

Saphir S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
traverse V1+ 5
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Joseph Bouisson, Paul Guerin, Maurice Samuel, Felix Soleil, 1939
Page Views: 857 total · 15/month
Shared By: Gini Kramer on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Summer closures Details

Description

Saphir ascends a long ridge just to the right of the Petite Aiguille. Its five pitches range from 5.6 to 5.9 (according to the chart in the Rockfax book about the Côte d'Azur). The climbing is generally moderate and varied. The decidedly alpine second pitch can be done in two pitches. The next to last pitch is definitely the crux, because it's so polished. But with a little care, it can be handled. Be forewarned, Saphir can get really crowded. So you may find yourself passing or being passed by other parties. Just be patient and deal with it.

Location

When you reach the top of the climb, a short walk that involves some scrambling will lead you to the plateau above. From there, you can turn right and follow a gully back down to the beach. Or turn left and follow the blue trail back to the parking area at the Col de Gardiole.

Protection

Saphir is "lightly" bolted, but it's a good idea to have a set of nuts and maybe one or two small cams. There are fixed anchors on each pitch, but if you're there on a busy day you may need to build an interim anchor or two to avoid traffic jams.

Photos

Rick Ziegler  
 
Good route. After the easy ridge-like traverse, there are a few options. Staying climbers left is 5.9 and the Saphir route. It's possible to move right and do some great 5.9/10- face climbing starting in a tubular chimney (2 pitches) May 1, 2014

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