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Routes in Heart Leaf Bluff

Dinner Date T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rave Party S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Elevation: 409 ft
GPS: 51.285, -2.763 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 409 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron
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Description

Perched high above the road on the North side of the gorge, this sunny crag offers exciting routes with exposure from the word go! Excellent views of climbers on High Rock and Sunset Buttress top off the experience at this crag.

The routes are mostly trad, with a selection from S 4a to E5 6b (5.5 to 5.12-ish), with Dinner Date (E1 5b, or low 5.10) always popular. In the sport department, the main attraction is probably the drastically exposed Mescalito (7c or 5.12d), but there are a handful of other 5.12 routes on offer.

Being situated quite high up, and facing South East, this crag gets the sun through to mid afternoon and can be a good choice for cold days. However, it will also be exposed to any wind going, and that's often quite a lot in Cheddar gorge!

The usual Cheddar disclaimers apply: some seepage in the winter, and some loose rock remains!

Getting There

A small path on the North side of the road leads up and rightwards above 5b wall. It then switches back left towards some woodland. Follow the edge of the woodland until you can traverse back right along the line of a sturdy rock-catching fence. Pass through the fence at the obvious join and continue along the base of the crag to your route.

2 Total Climbs

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