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Areas in Stairs Mountain

Back Stairs 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Stairs aka "Giant Steps", The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Up Stairs, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 3,000 ft
GPS: 44.153, -71.317 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,594 total · 48/month
Shared By: john strand on Aug 21, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Yet another really good backcountry area. 3 cliffs, ranging from 60-300'. All on quality granite with an easy(ish) approach and remote feel.

This is wilderness area, so no power tools, but I THINK that hand drilling is OK.

Getting There

Heading north on 302 from North Conway, about a mile past where Rt 16 turns off right to head to Pinkham Notch, Jericho Road is on your right. It is a small road so easy to miss. It is near a bike rental place and just before the river. See map

Drive up Jericho Rd all the way to the end, about 5 miles and park (great swimming). Walk up the trail past a shelter...the Stairs Col trail goes left from here.

Back Stairs is about 25 minutes up, then thrash right.

Giant Stairs is about 45 minutes, on the right before the col

Up Stairs is another 10-15 minutes bearing right at the "lookout" sign.. with a killer campsite

3 Total Climbs

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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Brian, here is the direct link to the Forest Management Plan last revised in 2009.

There are different designation of wilderness with differing restrictions. I have to dig in more to confirm, but I believe Stairs is not in the most restrictive designation. Aug 25, 2015
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Both power drills and (new) fixed protection are prohibited in Wilderness Areas. Aug 8, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
John, would you mind if I switched the Stairs over to Brady? I was just talking to him and he says he has a bunch of information to add. That would be the easiest way so he could do it directly. Aug 22, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Good thing wheelchairs are allowed ! I was talking with some Chinos guys and they thought " no fixed "
A ton of stuff to do up there.. 170' hands to tips crack, 5" out a 10' roof, 2 pitch arete....
The Stanton ridge , which is on your left going in, has a few lines as well, up to 140' Jan 14, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is in the Presidential Range-Dry River Wilderness. My understanding is it is just "No mechanized equipment or mechanical transport (including bicycles, carts, and wagons. Wheelchairs are allowed.)"

fs.usda.gov/detail/whitemou…

Brady said he ran into a ranger and she was only concerned that he not be using a power drill. It would be worth double checking the climbing plan though. I can't find it on the FS site atm. I guess you can ride a bike in part of the way until you get to the border Jan 14, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I'm a bit confused about the wilderness designation for this area- is it a"real" wilderness, no fixed ??? Or just " no mechanized ? Jan 14, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yeah, it sounded pretty impressive when he was describing it to me. I would like to get him to post up some information, but I think he is pretty busy these days. This is one crag that Handren's new guide is really missing a lot of information. I'll work on Brady and see if he will post up ;) Jan 13, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Right on !!! I heard brady did a fine 11+ 3 pitch line ? May 2, 2012
I made several trips out here a few years back with Brady Libby. He had put up an aid line with J LaFlemme years before this and wanted to go back and free it.
My dreams were of us waltzing in, blasting up clean splitters and heading back in time for happy hour at The Moat with a rad new route under our belts. The reality of the situation was some heinous horizontal bushwhacking with gargantuan packs, kitty litter-lichen covered rock, an unsuccessful bid to clip an old bolt with a 30ft stick clip, and some extreme vertical bushwhacking. No actual climbing was done on the first day.
We retreated to the lean-to and were blessed with a surprise visit from our friend Kirsten Thomas, who cooked us salami and cheese sandwiches on a shovel over an open fire. Day two was more of the same and we left with our tails between our legs.
This trip sparked a fire in Brady that could not be contained. He spent the better part of the next few summers out there putting up a slew of great routes. Todd Schaefer, Matt Mccormick, RJ Monton and I joined him when we could. When he could not find partner he would head out there alone to get things prepped and ready. There was also talk of the North Conway crew spending some time up there before moving on to bigger and better things.
This is a great backcountry crag with a true feeling of a wilderness experience. There still potential for new routes and adventure out there, so stop reading this and get going!
Timmy D May 2, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Right mark. Some good sized roofs and lots of thin cracks. Dec 4, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Brady Libby was working on some stuff here a few years ago and was trying to get me to come out, but I was already involved elsewhere and didn't want to get too spread out. He seemed impressed by the possibilities though. It is a no power drill area if I remember correctly.

Jericho road is about a mile west from where rt 16 coming down from Pinkam runs into 302.
google.com/maps/@44.1065226,-71.2053737,14.25z?hl=en Dec 4, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
No clue about the GPS.
If you drive north on RT 302 from Bartlett, just BEFORE the Ellis river (not the Saco, a few miles further), Jericho Road is on the right. If you come up to White's ledgearea, you have gone way to far.
The drive up Jericho is maybe 4 miles ? Sep 17, 2011
Kai Troester
Pepperell, MA
Kai Troester   Pepperell, MA
John,

Could you give more detail on the directions. There are a number of Jericho roads in New Hampshire. GPS coordinates may be useful as well. Aug 31, 2011

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