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Routes in Dylan Wall

Bear Mountain Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 9,000 ft
Page Views: 671 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jul 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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This area holds a number of moderate face and friction climbs, and even a couple of cracks. The rock is excellent quality and full of features and variety. It requires the longest approach of the Ironclads.

This area has clearly seen substantial development, but there appear to be no records of these routes, other than a few references in other posts. This area is placed here in the hopes of stimulating some more information, preferably by those first ascensionists that placed all of the bolts. Please contact me with info, and I'll update all of the details.

The routes are described from the right to left, since this is how you encounter the routes. Slab 1 is the farthest right "section" of rock and the first that is reached on the approach. Slab 2 is the broadest section of rock.


A? Bear Mountain Picnic, 7+, 2p, 250', gear.
M. Boltergeist.
N1. Tangled Up In Blue, 7+, 2p, bolts & gear.
N2. P2 variation, ~10, bolts.

? No Consensus, 2p.
? South Arete, 7, 2p, 200', gear & bolts.

Getting There

From the saddle by the nose, continue downhill, as if you're heading to Ironsides, but keep going downhill to the west. There is a faint trail that wraps around to the right, or north, and then back uphill leading to the slabs. It is about another 10 minutes past Ironsides.

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Hey, this is a great cliff! I have done most of these routes, and they are fun if you are looking for moderate routes in a cool setting. Once you cross the pass, you leave the ATV noise behind, and the bullets aren't even whizzing over your head anymore. I think you might get by with a 60 meter for a lot of these climbs, but may I recommend: Enjoy the adventure, maybe carry a rap rope and a light rack, most of these climbs are 5.7-5.10 and bolted where needed.

My friend Tom has provided Bernard Gillett with detailed info on this area and others which which he has developed with Matt, myself and others. Look for his next book if you enjoy this area. Oct 30, 2015
The one farthest to the right at the end of the ramp is, 2. "Tangled Up in Blue". It is two pitched, bolts and gear. The first pitch 5.6 NC, No Consensus, rap anchors at the top. The second pitch is maybe 5.7+ NC, rap anchors at the top. FA Tom Kohlmann/Matt Quinn. There is a 2nd pitch variation on this route that proceeds up a vertical wall right. It is in the 5.10 range, NC. Follow the bolts up and to an arete (crux) to anchors it shares with a separate climb we named "Boltergeist", Climb no. 1 which starts 100 feet southwesterly in a small canyon. The variation of route no. 2 was put up by Dan Hare/Rich Perch who did the first ascent.
The one on the ramp to just left of Route "2" is, 3. "Bear Mountain Picnic". It is two pitch with rap anchors. It may be 5.7+, NC. FA Eric Zschiesche/Donna Quinn. A note of caution---it has been a while since I have climb these climbs so I do not know their present condition as to bolts/anchors, etc. The routes are bolts and gear. We used 70 meter ropes. Matt Quinn Mar 3, 2014
Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
Hi Leo, Thanks to the link of the arete (), I'm fairly certain Michael was referring to another group of routes on a medium-sized monolith shown in . The ratings also seem to support this, as the routes on what I'm calling the West Slabs are very moderate in comparison. I'll get some better photos of the slabs. Of course, the FA team may have a name for this area, and I'm happy to change this temporary label whenever they communicate their info. Jul 9, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Bill, I wonder if this crag is the same as that mentioned on the Ironsides page with a R->L:

Across the valley to the west:


The Professionals, 11, gear + bolts.
Sump, 10+, gear + bolt.
unknown, 8, bolts.
unknown, 8, 2 bolts + gear, 90'.
unknown, 10, 1-2p, bolts + gear, 190'.
unknown, 9, 1p, bolts + gear, 85'.
unknown, 8+, 1p, bolts, 85'.
unknown arete, 10, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 10+, 1p, bolts.
unknown, 8?, 1p.

Lump, 11, 1p, bolts.
Pump, 12, 1p, bolts.
Chump, 11, 1p, bolts, 30'.
Forrest Gump, 11-, 1p, bolts. Jul 7, 2013

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