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Routes in Dylan Wall

Bear Mountain Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Zschiesche and Donna Quinn
Page Views: 150 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Jul 7, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious bolted line on Slab 1.

P1: scramble up a short gully to a small ledge, and head straight up to a bolt, or begin climbing a crack and dihedral to the right. Continue straight up, placing some natural gear or clipping some bolts to the belay/rap station. This is a different set of anchors from the South Arete, 5.6.

P2: climb up and to the right, into a series of steeper overlapping slabs (crux). Climb through these, placing protection and occasionally clipping a bolt, until you reach the upper face of the slab, where the rock becomes smoother and "slabby". This is a really fun pitch. Continue up to the 2-bolt rap station, 5.7+.

Protection

A small rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.

Photos

"Bear Mountain Picnic" was put up by Eric Zschiesche and Donna Quinn on lead, so it is a FA also.
Matt Quinn Mar 6, 2014
P1: 5.7 sport climb, 6-7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, a tad runout.

P2: lots of bolts around, but some are unclear whether they're part of the route. Some trad gear was useful for pulling the small overhang. You need a rope longer than 70m! We got stuck about 5 feet above the first anchor and had to improvise to reach it. A 70m rope does reach the ground from the first anchor. Jul 5, 2017

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