GPS: 43.906, -73.063 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 845 total · 13/month
Shared By: mmainer on Jun 15, 2013
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore
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Description

This is the most popular crag here. It is slabby and about 80' tall. Very popular for top-roping by school groups and summer camps. There are probably 4 or 5 distinct areas of clean rock here but the rock is such that you can basically climb them wherever you want wherever it's clean. A few climbs do take gear but most don't. Everything looks to be in the 5.5 to 5.8 range.

The trees here have clearly taken a beating from all the top roping. Be nice to them and use trad anchors wherever possible.

Getting There

From the campground, take the trail (clearly marked by a sign that says "Trail") up the hill. The Main Crag will come clearly into view. You can get to the top by walking around on the right

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The trail (such as it is) takes off from the south end of the campground loop that's on the EAST side of the road (main campground, ranger booth, beach etc are on the west side). I used to take my kids climbing on the quartzite cliffs here every summer, and access was simple. Now, however, the area has been designated a National Recreation Area, and there have been some changes. Camping at Falls of Lana is no more, the privy along the fire road to Silver Lake has been removed, the raptor closure has been implemented (the birds were there 20 years ago), and most relevant to climbers - the trail from the campground is no longer sanctioned. I didn't go look for it (was told it was still there, but unmarked/unmaintained). There is a new trail that leaves the road a bit farther north and loops around above the "Box Cliff"; certainly not the way to access the Main Cliff.

Bottom Line - park at the Falls of Lana/Silver Lake trailhead lot, walk the fire road til you can cross over to the FoL picnic area, then scramble west to the top of the cliff. Descend around either side as I recall. Oct 14, 2016
No need to mess with walking on the fire roads and coming in from above. Park at the established pull off bordered by quartzite boulders (blocking the entrance in to the old gravel parking lot) on the east side of Rt.53. From here, walk 5 minutes back north on 53 (watch for traffic, but it's a pretty quiet road) to the campground entrance on the east side of the road, and walk in to the trail head. It's located adjacent to the bathroom block at the back end of the southern loop of campground. It's literally a 1 minute walk from the gate.

"Sanctioned" or not, the trail itself remains well signed at its start, well blazed in blue, and couldn't be any more obvious. It also remains in regular use. Of course if the rangers now prefer it not be used we should respect this and, Gunkie Mike's advice may well be helpful. But I use it frequently in full view of campground staff, including as recently as last Friday, and have never had an issue.

In any case, it climbs briefly if steeply out of the campground into a beautiful hemlock stand, and soon bends to the north a bit. At this point, the main cliff is clearly visible through the trees on the right. Leave the main trail when roughly beneath the left end of the cliff and walk/scramble easily up and right to the base of the cliff. Total approach time from the parking area: 10 minutes. If the parking pullout is full (rare) continue south on Rt.53 for another couple of hundred yards to a large and obvious lot also on the east side of the road. This adds another few minutes of road walking to the approach.

To reach "The Box" cliff, instead of leaving the trail beneath the main cliff as described above, continue following it as it curves north and climbs uphill again for another 5 minutes. The cliff will soon appear on the right. This takes an additional 5 minutes. Oct 17, 2016