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Routes in The Gallery

Breaking Away S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Tower, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Opening Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Private Viewing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pucker Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riddle of Steel, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

Description

Although the routes in this area are technically on North Fin the area is separate as they are in a small gully between North Fin and Blazing Fin.

The few routes here don't see too much action so you're unlikely to encounter a crowd. The rock quality is great and the main wall here would be considered steep when compared to most Mt. Lemmon terrain.

Routes are shaded throughout the majority of the day.

Getting There

Squeezing the Lemmon II recommends "dropping down the gully just below Nancy's Thumb..." It should be noted that this approach does require a rappel. The alternate approach would be to walk down the gully between North and South Fins, towards Slippery When Wet, Nang, etc., and hiking back up the gully between Blazing Fin and the back side of North Fin. Scrambling is required to reach the belay point for the current routes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gallery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Thanks, Luke. That cleared all my confusion. Except I didn't actually climb Private Viewing, we climbed Opening Night. I'll try Private Viewing next time, it looked unique and fun as well.

Great job on those routes, Dark Tower and Riddle look stellar - and HARD. Thanks for bringing some attention back to this sweet spot. May 16, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Joe-

The Riddle of Steel is an alternate finish to Breaking Away - basically a two bolt finish + anchors (20 ft.) that drastically changes the caliber of climbing as it is by far and away the hardest section on the wall.

The Dark Tower is a lead in to any of the lines that starts much lower - down and to the right. I linked this into Pucker Up. I initially intended to link it into "The Gallery" - the right most line, but I was breaking holds all of over the place including one that exploded into my face when I was clipping.

The original three lines left to and sharing the same anchor are:

Breaking Away
Pucker Up
The Gallery

Not sure why the same anchor, but this seems to be something that has repeated itself with Mike Head's routes. I was just at The Pumphouse today and a similar route configuration exists for three routes there also.

Glad you got on Private Viewing. You're likely the second person on the line after myself. I enjoyed it. May 16, 2016
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Made my first trip to this spot, it's beautiful wall! I was a little confused by a couple of lines, not really having good info at my fingertips at the crag.

Do Riddle of Steel and Breaking Away share much of their climbing (i.e., is Riddle an alternate finish?) Maybe I didn't look close enough, but I didn't see four bolt lines.

After the second to last bolt on Pucker Up, do you head right toward the crack/flake system? I went left (I think onto Breaking Away?) and then did a rightward traverse back to finish on the rightmost anchors.

Private Viewing is a definitely a cool little puzzle! Excited to spend more shady days out here. May 16, 2016
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
Didn't mean to start any internet drama about the biner and nut, and not pointing fingers at anyone Alex, I know you didn't take it. Just pointing it out as gear around windy point has a tendency to disappear if left unattended Oct 30, 2014
Ever since the parking lot was enlarged to the west side or the highway the everyone head out to the top of Beaver Wall and North Fin. They scramble all over the place. Anything that is not fixed in a solid way will disappear. Easily reached anchors with lower off carabiners are prime targets for people who need a key holder. I am not saying a climber didn't snag the thing but suggesting that anything not locked down has a chance of disappearing. Mar 18, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Not all of us can be cool like Alex and brave all of the loose "near horizontal" gullies. Some of us prefer to be safe rather than sorry. I have kicked both pebbles and microwave sized blocks down the gully in question and I much prefer the short rappel or hand over hand down a line. In many other climbing areas a fixed line would be added here. Pretty sure that would just get taken also. In regards to the nut, it made for a more redundant anchor. No big deal on it getting swiped. I found it in North fin gully along with several more that almost surely got dropped from Slippery When Wet.

Its kind of Mt. Lemmon status quo for people to be totally uneducated on what is booty and what is not, but that is just the way it is.

Beware the "near horizontal" gully on the way up and down. If you are so inclined to use the bolt for a safer descent don't feel bad. Mar 16, 2014
Its quite likely the person who put it there just took it back though (last comment i swear) Mar 16, 2014
And i doubt jake was implying the single bolt rap isnt safe.....but rather its in poor taste to steal peoples shit :) Mar 16, 2014
Not much of a score on the biner either way......i left it there cause that shit was bombed out......maybe karma will handle the culprit with some core shot :) Mar 16, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
Jake, I didn't take the nut and biner, but it's pretty absurd to think that a 1/2" stainless steel bolt that protects an entirely unnecessary near-horizontal rappel needs a backup and even more absurd to think that a nut there would hold should you somehow generate enough force to blow the bolt. If you leave gear that isn't welded in place it's going to be bootied, especially when it is completely unnecessary. Mar 16, 2014
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
Someone removed the fixed nut and the biner that had been placed to back up the anchor for descent out of the gallery. Not Cool. If you want a nut; they're $7.99 at Summit Hut, don't take peoples gear. Mar 11, 2014
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Great Luke! I have a bolt puller that can be used to get some types of old bolts out completely. Feel free to PM me if you want to give it a try for that anchor that you mentioned. May 20, 2013
Jimbo  
Good on ya Luke! May 20, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
I replaced the main anchor and chains here on 5.19.2013, which is used by all three climbs on the wall. I also replaced missing hangers on the three climbs as many had been stripped off?? I have yet to remove the old anchor ( very rusted and 24 years old ), but will do ASAP. May 19, 2013

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