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The Gallery
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 4 - Windy Point West
Description
Although the routes in this area are technically on North Fin the area is separate as they are in a small gully between North Fin and Blazing Fin.
The few routes here don't see too much action so you're unlikely to encounter a crowd. The rock quality is great and the main wall here would be considered steep when compared to most Mt. Lemmon terrain.
Routes are shaded throughout the majority of the day.
Getting There
Squeezing the Lemmon II recommends "dropping down the gully just below Nancy's Thumb..." It should be noted that this approach does require a rappel. The alternate approach would be to walk down the gully between North and South Fins, towards Slippery When Wet, Nang, etc., and hiking back up the gully between Blazing Fin and the back side of North Fin. Scrambling is required to reach the belay point for the current routes.
[Hide Comment] Made my first trip to this spot, it's beautiful wall! I was a little confused by a couple of lines, not really having good info at my fingertips at the crag.
Do Riddle of Steel and Breaking Away share much of their climbing (i.e., is Riddle an alternate finish?) Maybe I didn't look close enough, but I didn't see four bolt lines.
After the second to last bolt on Pucker Up, do you head right toward the crack/flake system? I went left (I think onto Breaking Away?) and then did a rightward traverse back to finish on the rightmost anchors.
Private Viewing is a definitely a cool little puzzle! Excited to spend more shady days out here.
May 16, 2016
The Riddle of Steel is an alternate finish to Breaking Away - basically a two bolt finish + anchors (20 ft.) that drastically changes the caliber of climbing as it is by far and away the hardest section on the wall.
The Dark Tower is a lead in to any of the lines that starts much lower - down and to the right. I linked this into Pucker Up. I initially intended to link it into "The Gallery" - the right most line, but I was breaking holds all of over the place including one that exploded into my face when I was clipping.
The original three lines left to and sharing the same anchor are:
Breaking Away Pucker Up The Gallery
Not sure why the same anchor, but this seems to be something that has repeated itself with Mike Head's routes. I was just at The Pumphouse today and a similar route configuration exists for three routes there also.
Glad you got on Private Viewing. You're likely the second person on the line after myself. I enjoyed it.
May 16, 2016
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Luke. That cleared all my confusion. Except I didn't actually climb Private Viewing, we climbed Opening Night. I'll try Private Viewing next time, it looked unique and fun as well.
Great job on those routes, Dark Tower and Riddle look stellar - and HARD. Thanks for bringing some attention back to this sweet spot.
May 16, 2016
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San Antonio, TX
Do Riddle of Steel and Breaking Away share much of their climbing (i.e., is Riddle an alternate finish?) Maybe I didn't look close enough, but I didn't see four bolt lines.
After the second to last bolt on Pucker Up, do you head right toward the crack/flake system? I went left (I think onto Breaking Away?) and then did a rightward traverse back to finish on the rightmost anchors.
Private Viewing is a definitely a cool little puzzle! Excited to spend more shady days out here. May 16, 2016
Tucson, AZ
The Riddle of Steel is an alternate finish to Breaking Away - basically a two bolt finish + anchors (20 ft.) that drastically changes the caliber of climbing as it is by far and away the hardest section on the wall.
The Dark Tower is a lead in to any of the lines that starts much lower - down and to the right. I linked this into Pucker Up. I initially intended to link it into "The Gallery" - the right most line, but I was breaking holds all of over the place including one that exploded into my face when I was clipping.
The original three lines left to and sharing the same anchor are:
Breaking Away
Pucker Up
The Gallery
Not sure why the same anchor, but this seems to be something that has repeated itself with Mike Head's routes. I was just at The Pumphouse today and a similar route configuration exists for three routes there also.
Glad you got on Private Viewing. You're likely the second person on the line after myself. I enjoyed it. May 16, 2016
San Antonio, TX
Great job on those routes, Dark Tower and Riddle look stellar - and HARD. Thanks for bringing some attention back to this sweet spot. May 16, 2016