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Routes in The Gallery

Breaking Away S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Tower, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Opening Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Private Viewing S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pucker Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riddle of Steel, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Luke Bertelsen
Page Views: 290 total · 9/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Jan 25, 2016
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

A great addition to the mountain, this well-protected route features a Mount Lemmon rarity: large holds. Ascend less-than-vertical face using a leaning crack system to reach a roof. Pull the roof following a non-intuitive yet obvious sequence to reach an overhanging corner system. Climb a fantastic sequence to obtain the chains.

Location

This route is the leftmost of three routes on the southeast, less overhung side of The Gallery. It starts from a comfortable ledge with a belay bolt. The route can be reached by scrambling up two fixed ropes or by rappel.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors with lower offs.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
I did my best to do a thorough job cleaning the loose rock on this climb, but it might still be cleaning up a bit. Belayer beware as there isn't really anywhere to move from the belay perch if debris falls. I also intend to move one bolt still as the clip right where the going gets steep is a little reachy?.
Lastly, there is a right variation of this climb (shares bolts 1 and 2) that used to have red tag. Not sure if it's still there, but it is unclimbed and still needs some work. Enjoy! Jan 27, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Did this today, good job on the bolting, angle allowed me to work out the crux puzzle. Only a little fuzzy but worth doing. Great to climb something I have never been. Thanks Luke and Tiff. Feb 6, 2016

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