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Routes in The Gallery

Breaking Away S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dark Tower, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Opening Night S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Private Viewing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pucker Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Riddle of Steel, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 1,392 total, 25/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on May 19, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This is the middle of three routes on the wall, all of which climb a beautiful red overhanging face. I thought the climbing was pretty thuggish when compared to some of the more technical face climbs in the surrounding cliffs - big moves between fair holds with some Mt. Lemmon micros thrown in for good measure. There is good climbing the whole way.

Protection

12 bolts to a chain anchor.

Photos

Alex Kirkpatrick
  5.13a
Alex Kirkpatrick  
  5.13a
Classic! Thanks for the new bolts Luke Feb 24, 2014
And thank you for the rap bolt......that likely saved me an ass slide out of there. Jan 18, 2014
Id say good call on the bolt adition.....got on the route today and was darn fun but wouldnt have been worth the trouble of bringing a rack to protect the "approach" climbing.....especially since it was rainin kitty litter.......thanks luke....i look forward to sending that beast. Jan 18, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
Luke,

My only concern was added bolts without permission/discussion. I had asked around and learned that you and Mike had talked about the additions as well. I was more interested in avoiding another Chihuahua Power-gate. I think Pucker Up is a great route, whether it be fully bolted or with a few pieces of pro. As for current development trends, I don't hold any strong positions. FAist can do what they want.

Thanks for all the work cleaning up The Gallery! Jan 18, 2014
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Ryan,

I added the 4 bolts. I spoke with Mike H., and he told me that they never climbed the bottom section at all. Thus, he was fine with it.

Also, IMO, bolting the bottom of this climb is totally in line with current trends both on Lemmon and elsewhere. Why bolt a beautiful face and not the 35 ft. leading into it? Maybe now this thing will get traffic.

For what it's worth, I also added a rap anchor so you can low angle rappel out of the gully, down towards Nang, because it is very loose and a pain to climb down.

We gathered a full bag of trash out of that same gully a few weeks back.

Luke Jan 18, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
  5.13a
EDIT: FAist is fine with the additions.

Bummer. The first ~30 feet of 5.8/9ish crack used to require a couple pieces of gear, now it's bolts all the way down. Jan 16, 2014