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Routes in Deers Leap (Windham)

Broken Toe (Walk On The Wildside Variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Georges Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goofer's Roof Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hooterville (most obvious version) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unkown T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walk on the Wild Side T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 205 ft
GPS: 42.768, -71.298 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 7,702 total, 126/month
Shared By: Jeremy A on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

The history of climbing at Deers' Leap, Windham NH.
Deers* leap is an old cliff of very old and weathered granite, many of its cracks are well rounded and in some spots the rock is loose, so be careful. There are several seperate ledges that are all part of the same line of rock that forms the ridge that is the leap. Any original climbing done at the leap was done on the main face by the pond. Over the years these ledges have received many visitors but most of these were picnicers or beer drinkers. Not much climbing development went on here for many years untill recently(since 1977).

A guide to Deers Leap. Andy Kling 1984

Unfotunately the climbs here have degraded over the past years due to little traffic. Many of the routes have been re-claimed by lichen. Some or most of the boulder problems will need some cleanup. But if you can see past the lichen and have motivation to do some easy scrubbing it will be well worth it as all the routes present great positions and climbing on interesting horizontal features.

This area is broken up in to 3 of the major walls. The Main Face, Andy's Cliff (Middle Cliff), Porcupine Cliff.

  • **CAUTION, THIS AREA IS KNOWN TO HAVE MANY TICKS ALL SEASON (DEER TICKS AS WELL). USE PRECAUTION, BUG SPRAY, LONG PANTS etc.***

Getting There

Follow 111A West via exit 3 off 93. Take Marblehead Rd to Deer Run. After Deer Run look for a dirt road on the right (Woodbury Rd) with Multiple camp signs. Follow this to a parking area on the left. Park and hike in. Stay right at the fork brings you to the Main Face overlooking the now dried up pond. Staying left at the fork will lead you to the smaller walls.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deers Leap (Windham)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Georges Route
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face…
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Georges Route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Deers Leap (Windham) »

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Jeremy A   NH
This is known as the "Arrow trail or "Hump or Die". V4+. The route starts down left and traverses up to the roof position in the picture. If the top out is scrubbed you can get a decent enough hand to surmount the roof. Glad people are climbing out there again. There is a lot of great boulder problems with in that area. Definitely need some TLC. Enjoy. Jun 25, 2015
Evan V
Nashua, New Hampshire
Evan V   Nashua, New Hampshire
Awesome problem, Id guess V4-5. Still cant top it.
Just wondering if this problem had an existing name and grade.

It is on the right side of a 25' cliff. In the old guide someone uploaded it is in the "Hump or Die" area and could quite possible be Hump or Die..

May 16, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Hi Hailey, by "free climbed", do you mean "free soloed"? If you're confused these terms, it suggests to me that you are a beginner, and therefore should not be soloing. It's best to hook up with an experienced climber (or a guide) and learn the tricks of the trade. There have been many local crags that have been closed because locals have thought themselves "climbers" and tried to scale the cliffs. When bad things happen to these "climbers", it gives the rest of us climbers (those of us who climb safely and have been trained to do so) a bad name and jeopardizes access to some of our favorite spots.

If you'd like a referral to a local guide service, just PM me, and I'd be happy to point you to some reputable guides. Sep 20, 2013
HaileyC  
me and my brother free climbed the main face of the leap. it was awesome. dont do it if you have any doubt in yourself. Sep 18, 2013
Very dirty walls. We found 2 nice climbs and did a bit of cleaning. Lots of broken glass. Bring long lines for the top rope anchors. Jun 15, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I was interested in finding out what happened to the pond over the past few years and after a few queries I came across this great write-up on Simpson Pond (now known as Moeckel Pond) and the mill that was sat at the south tip.

moeckelpond.com/A%20Brief%2…

So the pdf mentions: "After becoming widowed, Gertrude C. Moeckel transferred property to Gertrude E. Moeckel Linton and James R. Linton in 1963. Upon the death of Gertrude Linton (2006), the property passed from her trust to a triumvirate of owners in the hope that it could be used for the greater good. Unfortuantely, an unrepaired crack in the dam has forced the draining of the mill pond, leaving a muddy meadow unable to sustain the wildlife that once dwelt there. Efforts are underway to restore the dam and the pond and make it available to the people of Windham."

I hope the town finds a way to restore the pond... it was a nice little spot.

Apr 17, 2013
Just Jesse
Methuen, MA
Just Jesse   Methuen, MA
Nice... I'm glad someone finally put Deers Leap up on MP. Thanks Jeremy. It may be helpful to note that decades of high school partying have left the area below the main cliff awash in broken glass. Bring a tarp for your rope (and if you're super awesome, a trash bag to pack some of it out). Dec 20, 2012
Jeremy A   NH
The original guide book can be found per this link.
mediafire.com/view/?av7pnm1… Nov 29, 2012

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