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Routes in Deers Leap (Windham)

Broken Toe (Walk On The Wildside Variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Georges Route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goofer's Roof Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hooterville (most obvious version) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unknown T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unkown T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Walk on the Wild Side T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Kerry Macmullen Sept. '82
Page Views: 79 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ming on Apr 23, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is the face climbing variation to "Walk On The Wildside". Start at the same unmistakable right trending crack. The crack jams real well and feels easy 5.7. A few feet before the arete there will be slanted horizontals above you at which point you'll start going straight up. Have faith climbing the face as unique for New England "eyebrow" cracks appear exactly where you need them. Place pro carefully about 1/2 way up the face as the eyebrow cracks are just flared enough to make placement tricky. Good pro can be had 4 feet above the tricky placement. I cleaned the exit crack pretty well so it is a straight 5.6 move and not a manky, dirty, scary mantle move on rock with lichen. To make it even more mellow, you can place pro to protect the top out.

Location

This is on Andy's Cliff - it's the cliff below the porcupine cliff - as you follow the red dot trail past the main cliff towards southeast for about 250 or so yards, you'll see the trail split into 3(?) trails, take the right most one (white square I think) - you can kinda see the crag at this point and go another 50 yards to the base of the cliff. It's the lower one - the upper one is Porcupine cliff.

Protection

Have faith that there's pro as you go up the face. I used BD .3 up to a 2 - there is a placement for a 3 also if in the middle if you bring it. The eyebrow cracks do flare so please be mindful of your placements.

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