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Elevation: 1,066 ft 325 m
GPS: 46.1883, 8.7517
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Shared By: Dan Flynn on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn
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Description Suggest change

A hugely popular sport climbing spot, with a mix of easier routes and very tough climbs (over 8a). The main dome, Castiliere, has over a hundred pitches of moderate 'plaisir' (3c-6b) climbing just on the giant granite dome, split by several ledges for easy mixing and matching.

The Settore Est has another 40+ climbs, with the truly fun 5c's and some stunning, steep hardcore climbs in the 7's and 8's. 60m ropes sufficient for almost all climbs.

Topo from an old SAC pdf, via chmoser.ch, or in Plaisir Sud, Extrem Sud, or the SAC guidebook to Ticino.

Getting There Suggest change

Very easy access from Locarno, 15 min bus or short train ride to the town of Ponte Brolla, then easy walk up to the cliff.

Approach to the Settore Est starts in the entrance to Grotto America, but go up the stone stairs to the left and past several magical grottos, the Sunday cave hang-outs for families in the area. Oh, and through some palm tree stands, too. I repeat, palm trees. In Switzerland.

If you drive, there are two main parking areas:
1) across the street (opposite the cliffs) of the train tracks, near the road crossing
2) big gravel lot near Grotto America (which also has a water fountain)

28 Total Climbs

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Clipping the chains on Gambe Leggere 6c+
Clipping the chains on Gambe Leggere 6c+
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