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Routes in Sperone

Sperone 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 1,377 ft
GPS: 46.188, 8.76 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

Tame, pleasant slab climbing on the same bomber gneiss found elsewhere in the region, with routes from one up to 12 pitches.

The area is west-facing, and accordingly gets sun from the late morning until later in the day (depending on season - in the shorter days of the year it gets a lot less sun, particularly the lower part).

Due to the good protection and ease of access, it tends to be (very) popular.

Both the Plaisir süd and SAC Ticino guidebooks have comprehensive coverage of the routes here.

Getting There

Right next to Monte Garzo, towards the entrance of the valley. From the village of Ponte Brolla, follow the road a very short distance into the Maggia valley. Park on the side of the road near the large, red pedestrian bridge and head up a trail that takes off into the forest just across the road from where the bridge is. Follow it up to a large power / telephone mast, and further to the base of the wall.

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