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Routes in Monte Garzo

Alhambra 6b+ S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucertola 6c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maggialore 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Description [Suggest Change]

A 600 meter climb does not sound like a casual affair, but at Monte Garzo it is. There are shorter routes as well, but most people come here to climb one of the longer (up to 18 pitch) routes.

The wall has two very different components - a long, moderate angle slab followed by a steep, structured headwall.

It is the same bomber gneiss found elsewhere in the region, but particularly in the terrain transitioning between slab and headwall there is vegetation and some loose stuff.

The area is west-facing, and accordingly gets sun from the late morning until later in the day (depending on season - in the shorter days of the year it gets a lot less sun, particularly the lower part).

Due to quality and length of routes, good protection and ease of access, it tends to be (very) popular.

Both the Plaisir süd and SAC Ticino guidebooks have comprehensive coverage of the routes here.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From the village of Ponte Brolla, follow the road a very short distance into the Maggia valley. Park on the side of the road near the large, red pedestrian bridge and head up a driveway undearneath the wall. Follow the well-tracked dirt road at the end of the driveway, breaking right after a few hundred meters on a well-tracked path for a scramble up to the base. The approach takes about 20 minutes.

3 Total Climbs

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