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Routes in Bryant Ledge

Blueberry Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Morning T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hand Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Millenium Falcon T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Seaming T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Trees-a-crowd T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Elevation: 890 ft
GPS: 43.976, -71.685 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: matthewWallace on Aug 21, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall
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Description

[Updated and corrected Aug 2017 - R. Hall w/ permission of M Wallace, submitter]


This is a little cliff located very close to the road in Woodstock NH. The cliff is about 100 feet tall at it highest point and has a general dome shape. There is evidence of climbing here but I don't not know the extent of it, but there are 3 or 4 trees with very old slings on them. [2017 update, we found newer slings with quick-links on at least 4 or 5 trees. R Hall]

The parking area for Bryant Ledge is small only 2 or 3 cars can fit there so if it is full please respect it and don't park in the driveway that approaches the house(s). However, if you decided to go here you will probably have the place to yourself so parking should never be an issue.

Getting There

2017 Note- Earlier postings incorrectly confused Parker Ledge and Parker Ledge Rd with Bryant Ledge and Bryant Ledge Rd. They are two completely different entities, about 2 miles apart, and it is not known if there actually are any routes on Parker Ledge.

From the south, take I-93 to exit 30, turn onto route 3 north, follow for 5 minutes and Bryant Ledge Rd will on your left. Pull in and park in the little pull off and the hiking trail to the top of the cliff leads right up from next to the telephone pole.

If you're coming from North Woodstock, Bryant Rd is on the right, about 3 miles south of the Rt3/Rt112 intersection in No. Woodstock.

There is a modern church directly across the steet.

PLEASE DON'T BOTHER THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN THE HOUSE(s) ON BRYANT LEDGE RD.

It looks as if before the house(s) were built you could just walk up Bryant road (it's only about 200 ft long, even today) and walk into the woods and in "3 minutes" and about 50-75 vertical ft of hiking, you'd be at the base. This access is now blocked by the houses, but the trail to the top seems to be a well-trodden local, unmarked path. Takes about 10 min. There's a fireplace-obolisk on the top, flying an American flag when we were there. From here walk 45 degrees left (directly towards Cannon Cliff) to, and through, a band of trees to open slab beyond. Scramble down this slab(s) to a tree and rap the rest of the way. If you find an established rap, there's a good chance it's a single 60m rap.

While I haven't done it, it appears that if you walk south on Rt3 for 50yds or so, and then head directly uphill you'd hit the base of the cliff very quickly, perhaps in only 3 minutes. Land ownership status of this approach, as well as the cliff itself and the path to the "summit" is not known. Please try to keep noise to a minimum and, of course, keep it clean (which the "summit" was when we were there!) [R Hall note, 2017]

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I seem to remember this actually being labeled Woodstock Dome on maps ? The housing encroachment was fully going on by 1981 for sure Nov 29, 2016
ANM
ANM  
This cliff was known as Woodstock dome for a long time - and is referenced in one of earlier Cannon guidebooks (grey cover, 72?). Pretty much all he routes listed and more were climbed multiple times back in the early to mid 70's if not before. And yes Howard Peterson, Dave Tibbits, John Porter and probably Roger Martin were all involved in the development. Before the houses started encroaching it was a great place to have a few beers and do short & fun climbing after a day on Cannon. We stopped going there aroung 1980 or so due to the neighbors... we weren't entirely sure who owned what. And if push came to shove the authorities would always side with whoever is not a climber.
It's nice to know you can climb on it once again.

An interesting feature about the climbs there, is that from early on Howard was insistent that no bolts or pitons be placed....i think he felt the combination of the rough nature of the rock, the angle, and the size of the place made it likely that once started, the bolt situation would quickly get out of hand... quant notions in this day & age.

And there is lots of potential around to the right..... the obvious offwidth was clinmbed by Chris Hassig around 1976. Nov 29, 2016
beensandbagged   R.I.
Climbing on this ledge goes back to the 70's it was the first place I climbed, and that was 1973. I was living in Woodstock just down the road. At the time there were rumors of Dave Tibbits and Howard Peterson spending some time there. These two were active on Cannon in the early 70's and lived in the area. Nov 17, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I wonder if this used to be (or is now) known as Parker Ledge. I saw it listed as this on one topo... and the street you park on is Parker Ledge. However, other topos list it as Bryant Ledge. Apr 17, 2013
I was shown this cliff by my friend who had a cabin nearly across the street from the crag, pretty cool little spot for an afternoon session. I would talk to john sykes, if anyone would know it would be him or jamie cunningham. Sep 15, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I have climbed two routes here that we believe have been climbed before, one certainly has been climbed. I would like to get as much info possible about the routes, developers, history etc of Bryant Ledge.

I do know that people climbed here as early as the 1980's but I do not know to what extent. Please provide as much info as possible and I will add it to the description!

This is the dome you can see when driving on the highway, there seems to be much potential here! Aug 21, 2011

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