Elevation: 751 ft
GPS: 40.499, -75.229 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 210,421 total · 1,883/month
Shared By: Dan Allard on Mar 28, 2011 with improvements by Byron Igoe
Admins: Justin Johnsen, William Sonoma, SCPC

Description

Solid Triassic Diabase bouldering on Pennsylvania State Game Lands 157. with everything from slopers to crimpers to slabs to cracks on ratings from V0 to V10+. Landings range from good to terrible with most problems surrounded by rocks.

The climbing is entirely in the woods with generally poorly marked trails you may find hundreds of quality, established problems exist, plenty more to be explored.

Friction seems to pop in cooler temperatures making early spring and late fall the ideal seasons for this area.

Be sure to wear bright colors (blaze orange) accordingly during hunting seasons as much of the climbing is on PA State Game Lands.

The main footpath is Top Rock Trail. It starts at the Top Rock lot in the east, goes to Top Rock, and then goes south to the Hangar 18/Mill Road parking.

Teddy Bear, Top Rock, the Glass Wall, Area 15, and Hangar 18 are all along Top Rock Trail.

Hobo Trail is reached by going through Teddy Bear, and further north.

The Caves Trail is a cutoff that avoids the summit. Caves Trail (east) leaves Top Rock trail before Teddy Bear, connects to Gateway, reaches the Caves, passes under the River of Rocks, then Caves Trail (west) returns to Top Rock Trail about halfway between Area 51 and Hangar 18.

If you want to stay somewhere civilized overnight, Nockamixon State Park right next to Haycock Mountain has cabins and hostel for rent. For camping, the next park west, Lake Towhee (Bucks County) Park offers tent camping sites.

The nearest climbing store and guide service to Haycock is the Doylestown Rock Gym. It's only a short detour if visiting Haycock. They seem to be the best place to look for the current guidebook, and may offer other information, too.

Timeline
Circa 1970s: Pete Cody and Ed Vansteinwick were early climbers to establish and document routes at Haycock (per Holzman).
1990s: Problems up to V9 were established.
2000s: Char Fetterolf has established and published problems up to V12.
2002: Char's first edition of "A Bouldering Guide to Haycock Mountain."
2012: Char's second edition of his guide book.

Char's latest information is available as a digital guidebook within the Gunks+ app: gunksapps.com/haycock.html

Getting There

Top Rock parking

Use Top Rock for most Haycock areas.

Off of RT 563 turn north onto Top Rock Trail Road. About a mile down on the left is a small parking area. Follow the obvious singletrack hiking trail up to the Trail-split Boulder; go left at this junction for the Caves Trail East, and right for other areas.

After this, trails are generally poorly marked. Look for cairns and blazes on trees.

Hangar 18 parking

Use Mill Road parking for Hangar 18.

Off of RT 563, turn north onto Harrisburg School Road. Turn right at Kinzler Road. Pass a stop sign, park in a small lot on the left, and follow a trail to Hangar 18, the Caves Trail West. and other bouldering areas.

186 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
 46
Bubblegum Face
Boulder
V1 5
 19
3-Star
Boulder
V1 5
 6
The Fin
Boulder
V2 5+
 8
L'angle
Boulder
V3 6A
 45
Bubblegum
Boulder
V3 6A
 17
Dubeck
Boulder
V4 6B
 31
Gumball
Boulder
V4 6B
 13
Tsunami
Boulder
V5 6C
 39
Little Fluffy Clouds
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Iron Lion
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Mo Mangos
Boulder
V7 7A+
 6
Before the Storm
Boulder
V8 7B PG13
 4
Of Mice and Men
Boulder
V10 7C+ PG13
 3
Yosemite Crack
Boulder
V11 8A
 3
Proximity Infatuation
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bubblegum Face Hangar 18 > Bubblegum
 46
V0+ 4+ Boulder
3-Star Caves Trail > 3-Star
 19
V1 5 Boulder
The Fin Glass Wall
 6
V1 5 Boulder
L'angle Caves Trail > Caves
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Bubblegum Hangar 18 > Bubblegum
 45
V3 6A Boulder
Dubeck Caves Trail > Dubeck
 17
V3 6A Boulder
Gumball Hangar 18 > Black Angus Area
 31
V4 6B Boulder
Tsunami Hangar 18 > Over the Falls Area
 13
V4 6B Boulder
Little Fluffy Clouds Caves Trail > Little Fluffy Clouds…
 39
V5 6C Boulder
Iron Lion Top Rock Area > Top Rock
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Mo Mangos Caves Trail > Mo Mangoes
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Before the Storm Caves Trail > Top Rock/Caves Trail…
 6
V7 7A+ Boulder
Of Mice and Men Hangar 18 > Of Mice & Men Area
 4
V8 7B PG13 Boulder
Yosemite Crack Caves Trail > Caves
 3
V10 7C+ PG13 Boulder
Proximity Infatuation Outliers
 3
V11 8A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon) »

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