> Southeastern Lowlands
Solid Triassic Diabase bouldering on Pennsylvania State Game Lands 157
. with everything from slopers to crimpers to slabs to cracks on ratings from V0 to V10+. Landings range from good to terrible with most problems surrounded by rocks.
The climbing is entirely in the woods with generally poorly marked trails you may find hundreds of quality, established problems exist, plenty more to be explored.
Friction seems to pop in cooler temperatures making early spring and late fall the ideal seasons for this area.
Be sure to wear bright colors (blaze orange) accordingly during hunting seasons as much of the climbing is on PA State Game Lands.
The main footpath is Top Rock Trail. It starts at the Top Rock lot in the east, goes to Top Rock, and then goes south to the Hanger 18/Mill Road parking.
Teddy Bear, Top Rock, the Glass Wall, Area 15, and Hanger 18 are all along Top Rock Trail.
Hobo Trail is reached by going through Teddy Bear
, and further north.
The Caves Trail is a cutoff that avoids the summit. Caves Trail (east) leaves Top Rock trail before Teddy Bear, connects to Gateway, reaches the Caves, passes under the River of Rocks, then Caves Trail (west) returns to Top Rock Trail about halfway between Area 51 and Hanger 18.
If you want to stay somewhere civilized overnight, Nockamixon State Park
right next to Haycock Mountain has cabins and hostel for rent. For camping, the next park west, Lake Towhee (Bucks County) Park
offers tent camping sites.
The nearest climbing store and guide service to Haycock is the Doylestown Rock Gym
. It's only a short detour if visiting Haycock. They seem to be the best place to look for the current guidebook, and may offer other information, too. Timeline
Circa 1970s: Pete Cody and Ed Vansteinwick were early climbers to establish and document routes at Haycock (per Holzman).
1990s: Problems up to V9 were established.
2000s: Char Fetterolf has established and published problems up to V12.
2002: Char's first edition of "A Bouldering Guide to Haycock Mountain."
2012: Char's second edition of his guide book.
Char's latest information is available as a digital guidebook within the Gunks+ app: gunksapps.com/haycock.html