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Routes in Nuit de Temps

De Puta Madre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Objetivo M S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tam Tam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Venin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 2,520 ft
GPS: 42.287, -0.082 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 438 total, 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 14, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

This is hardly the most impressive cliff in the canyon, yet with a good assortment of very long moderates & an East-facing aspect, this can be a good place to warm up on chilly days.

The cliff offers a wide variety of grades from 5.9 to 5.13+, but the best routes are in the 5.11a to 5.12a range. Most of the routes climb long slabs of smooth gray stone, though there is a tiny cave with some short tufa sections to the right.

This cliff is essentially the right flank of the Gran Boveda cave. This can make route-finding a bit tricky as its tough to distinguish the dividing line between the two sectors. There are routes on both sides of the arete, those on the right face East and those on the left face south. Most of the routes to the left are hard, but there is one nice-looking 5.11, "Amelie", that bakes in the sun most of the day.

Getting There

Nuit de Temps is on the West side of the canyon, immediately right of "Gran Boveda". Approach as for Gran Boveda, hiking into the bottom of the canyon. Walk up-canyon until you're even with the north end of the Gran Boveda Cave. Pickup a trail on the left, heading through some bushes up the hill. Stay left at the first fork, to reach the toe of a slabby buttress. The routes are on either side of this buttress.

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