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Routes in Nuit de Temps

De Puta Madre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Objetivo M S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tam Tam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Venin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total · 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description [Edit]

This excellent wall climb offers interesting technical crimping & an airy position on beautiful orange stone. You will pass the odd tufa, but gernally this is a steep edging route on great rock.

Begin up Tam Tam, or scramble around the corner up the the trail & ledges to an exposed perch on the arete. Make increasingly harder moves up orange stine to a hard pinch move, eventually arriving at a break. CLimb an overhanging tan slab on jugs, then the techy crux on the headwall: a hard step-up using a sideupll/undercling. Easier moves lead up the gray slab.

Location [Edit]

Furthest left route on the East face (first route right of the arete).

Protection [Edit]

Many bolts to 2BA. The route is about 30m high from the ledge, but if you start from the ground a 70m rope will NOT reach the ground. It is possible to TR with a 70 if you belay from up on the ledge.

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