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Routes in Nuit de Temps

De Puta Madre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Objetivo M S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tam Tam S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Venin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 43 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This excellent wall climb offers interesting technical crimping & an airy position on beautiful orange stone. You will pass the odd tufa, but gernally this is a steep edging route on great rock.

Begin up Tam Tam, or scramble around the corner up the the trail & ledges to an exposed perch on the arete. Make increasingly harder moves up orange stine to a hard pinch move, eventually arriving at a break. CLimb an overhanging tan slab on jugs, then the techy crux on the headwall: a hard step-up using a sideupll/undercling. Easier moves lead up the gray slab.

Location

Furthest left route on the East face (first route right of the arete).

Protection

Many bolts to 2BA. The route is about 30m high from the ledge, but if you start from the ground a 70m rope will NOT reach the ground. It is possible to TR with a 70 if you belay from up on the ledge.

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