The Warlock Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 4,715 ft | 1,437 m |
GPS: |
38.58376, -109.94776 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 4,933 total · 26/month | |
Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009 | |
Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details.
Details
These canyons are important habitat for a variety of wildlife, including raptors such as the Mexican spotted owl, golden eagle and the only herd of native desert bighorn sheep in Utah. In response to a recent increase of recreational activity impacting wildlife habitat, the Moab BLM is implementing a rule to restrict aerial and roped activities in the Hell Roaring and Mineral canyons. The rule includes a permit requirement for all climbing below the canyon rims. The decision was reached after significant study, and environmental assessment including the consideration of public comments.
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:
eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…
For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.
To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.
federalregister.gov/documen…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.
It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in 95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in 07.
A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.
It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in 95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in 07.
A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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