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Routes in The Warlock

Wings of Leather T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13
Elevation: 4,715 ft
GPS: 38.584, -109.948 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.

It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in ‘95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in ‘07.

A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

See directions on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Marco Cornacchione was able to free climb "Dude, That's Not Funny" back on Oct.26, 1997. We nicknamed that trip the "cruel crusade" because we were constantly getting bouted by the weather--snow, wind and cold the whole time, except for the clear and cold day that we climbed this route. On the previous chilly day, after we climbed the Caldron, I got on the first pitch of "Dude" and checked out whether it could go free or not. A huge wedge-shaped block guarded the crux. We decided to add a bolt, aid past the block, then kick it out from above (the FA party had boldly aided through this section w/o a bolt). We returned the next day, which was clear but very slow to warm up. I led the first pitch free, which was thin fingers to hands, at about 5.12-. Next, Marco fired the second pitch, an overhanging squeeze-to-offwidth nightmare, in perfect style (again,about 5.12-). I found this incredibly hard on TR, and required tension to get through it. The remaining two pitches weren't nearly as hard (5.10 and 5.7). We summited, rappelled through the bowels of the tower, then made the exhausting jug to the rim carrying tons of gear. Our plans to be back in Boulder for work the next day were quickly dashed, as it was dark by the time we reached the truck, and we were in no shape for a long drive. Back in Boulder the storm had dumped feet of snow. The "cruel crusade" was miserable for most of its duration, but in the end it was an adventure I won't forget. Jan 12, 2010

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