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Elevation: 4,715 ft 1,437 m
GPS: 38.58376, -109.94776
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,933 total · 26/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane
Warning Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details. DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Warlock is a proud, freestanding, wingate tower on the south side of Hell Roaring Canyon. At 350 feet, this is one of the bigger towers in the Moab area and should not be missed by those who enjoy this type of remote, adventure climbing.

It was first climbed by Ron Olevsky, Dave Mondeau, and Dale Kruse in April of 1985. Since then, only two lines are known to have been added. Mike Pennings and Dave Medara climbed a new route on the sw face in ‘95 and Matt, Sam and I added another line in ‘07.

A worthy weekend for the tower baggers out there would be to camp on the rim and climb all three towers in the area. If you were fast, you could climb them all in a day.

Getting There Suggest change

See directions on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.

2 Total Climbs

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Location: The Warlock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13
 6
Wings of Leather
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wings of Leather
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
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