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Routes in The Warlock

Wings of Leather T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Pickren, Sam Lightner, and Brad Brandewie
Page Views: 1,529 total, 15/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent.

Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13

Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0

Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.

Location

See map on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.

Protection

Double set of cams to #3 Camalot
Set of medium to large nuts
A couple large cams
Glad to hear that people are climbing this route and super stoked everyone is freeing it. Nce work Steven! Glad to hear that the roof isn't that bad. I wish I had given it a shot on the FA. I was pretty damn tired after climbing and cleaning the pitch up until that point and then drilling the bolt. (read = "I wish I wasn't a bitch...). Pretty sweet area and awesome day out climbing the Warlock along with the Cauldrons and the Witch. Enjoy! Feb 23, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11 C0
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11 C0
Just climbed this route all free and it's no harder than 5.11. I actually though the roof had the best moves of the whole climb and felt slightly easier than other sections of the 2nd pitch. Oh and thanks for the bolt, that is a thank god piece for sure!

I also have different gear beta that should be useful to most. I brought 2 #4's, 1 #5 & #6 but never found any place to use the #4's?! Instead I would recommend leaving the #4's (and #3's for that matter, never placed a single one) and bring 2 new #5's and #6's. Even with two of each you'll be walking them but I think most people would prefer walking four cams instead of two up such a long pitch.

Oh and I utilized no lay backing of the OW at the roof. Stemming, arm bars and stacks worked great and didn't require soiling my pants to perform. Feb 22, 2014
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Good effort Herb... its a lot of liebacking or grovelling up there. Sep 5, 2012
I'm sure its been done by now, but Jim Madore and I freed the route back in late April. We broke up pitch two by belaying in the base of the chimney. We interpreted "a few larger cams" as two #4s, a 5, and a 6. This felt a little light since the entirety of pitch two is wide. We recommend a few more. The bolt out on the lip was nice. Sep 5, 2012
I freed the moves getting over the lip, but pulled on gear for the rest of the pitch. Maybe it is a little harder then 5.7+, but it is doable at around mid 5.11. Hell of a pitch Matt! That thing is long!

This is what Matt had to say after I told him about my experience on pitch two.

"Sweet work. With our powers combined we freed the entire route then. Me = 99.9%, you= 0.1%" Nov 18, 2010
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
A strong party could free this route, we weren't the one's to do so though it didn't seem like it would be too difficult as there's holds outside of the offwidth past the roof. Probably would go at solid 5.11?
Thanks for that bolt guy's. Nov 8, 2010
Seriously! Layback that shit! Aug 5, 2009
I hear ya Brad. Thanks for the props. After describing the movements and nature of the route to Ben, he decided it sounded like it is a simple 5.7+ layback problem.

...maybe "sand in Sam's hatchet wound"... I think it is strating to sounds like a jingle! Aug 1, 2009
I think I'll rename it, Sam's Hatchet Wound.

The bat thing was pretty weird. It fell for what seemed like 10 seconds before we realized what it was. It had crawled into another crack by the time we left the belay.

I only say that a strong party could get it free becasue you almost got it onsight while throwing big rocks out of the crack as you went and drilling above your head with the heaviest drill on the planet.

The next stud that heads up there will get a much cleaner crack, an overhead bolt for the roof moves, and the knowledge that it has been done before. Jul 30, 2009
First off all, Brad says "a strong party could easily get the first free ascent of this route." The thing is, I totally agree with him, as long as they are capable of freeing such roof cracks as Brother From Another Planet, found at the Fin wall at Indian creek. Very similar. Enjoy.

Next, yes a bat was thrown from the bowels of the wide, second pitch. But, the route climbs a wide, continuous crack, very similar to our original name: "Hermione Granger's Hatchet Wound." But Wings of Leather is still proud... Jul 30, 2009
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
A Dispute:
I was under the opinion that in honor of the heroine of Harry Potter, we were going to call this "Hermione Grangers Hatchet Wound" or "Hermione Grangers Lucky Broom", but Mr. Brandewie apparently veto-ed. This sad excuse of a name stems from bat who fell out of the crack (as Matt climbed past him) and only unfolded one wing, thus spun his way to the belay ledge and into the chimney. Thats a lousy way to wake up from a 3 month sleep. Jul 30, 2009