Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 6 pitches
FA: Tavish Hansen, Sam Duke, Nov 2021
Page Views: 244 total · 13/month
Shared By: T a v i s h on Nov 30, 2021
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This is probably the easiest route up the tower and with some bolts and additional trundling could be quite safe, but for now its a pretty engaging adventure route.

p1: Several options to gain the ledge that Eye of the Newt starts from. 5.5, 30 feet

p2: Walk to the left side of the ledge. Two options: Climb the left side of the varnished pillar via an unprotected wide offwidth, or climb the right side via a thin corner with some pro. The right option ends with a short leftward traverse on very soft rock. Step across the notch and belay at a big block against the wall. 5.10-, 50 feet

p3: Reach up and right to a small shelf off the belay block and mantle up beneath the limestone layer. An awkward step right puts you beneath a V groove that you enter with some poorly protected and funky moves (crux). Step right one more time to a nice crack system that leads to a left facing corner topped by a luxurious ledge. 5.10 R, 100 feet

p4: Climb the short, unprotected but secure offwidth, make some awkward moves around left to easy loose terrain. Belay at two drilled angles next to the massive chimney that the Olevsky route comes up. 5.9 R, 50 feet

p5: Climb the nice splitter on the arete and belay at the left side of the big ledge. 5.9, 30 feet

p6: A couple moves through the crack on the left side of the ledge, then a short steep crack through soft rock to the top of the tower. 5.8, 40 feet

Descent: We rappeled the Olevsky route with a 70. Rap from the summit bolts back to the drilled angles next to the chimney. Rap down the chimney straight into the bowels of the tower (wild!) and walk through the giant chasm to the north side of the formation. Tunnel down to a ledge with two more drilled angles and one rap gets you to the ground. Easy walk back to the start.


Double rack from 0.2 to 3.  No bolted belays besides where it joins the Olevsky route and the summit.  New tat may be needed for the descent.