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Areas in Middle Fork

Armory, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Grease & Grime Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Great Chasm, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hot Zone, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lou's Tavern 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Matrix, The 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Melon Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Short Chossy wall above the Matrix 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Utah Climbing Club Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

The routes in this area are those accessed by traveling on the footpath in Maple CanyonÂ’s Middle Fork.

Getting There

The Middle Fork trail starts at the rightward bend in the road near a large information sign with photographs (not the pay area sign) and near parking for several vehicles and heads west (the same direction as the road before the bend) past two campsites on the right.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
The Great Chasm
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Slamfire
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Warm & Soapy Lather
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Buckshot
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
Sound the Klaxon
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Phantom Fury
Sport 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Lock n' Load
Sport 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Twelve Tasty Donuts
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Neo
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 24
Amenema
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Amplification
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Chasm Great Chasm
 83
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
Slamfire Armory, The
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
Warm & Soapy Lather Lou's Tavern
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Buckshot Matrix
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sound the Klaxon Matrix
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Phantom Fury Armory, The
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Lock n' Load Armory, The
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Twelve Tasty Donuts Matrix
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Neo Matrix
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Amenema Matrix
 24
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Amplification Hot Zone
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Middle Fork »

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Photos

On Aug 29, 2011, my wife and I were searching for the Great Chasm route and failed to find it. We decided to check out the Natural Arch, farther up the Middle Fork trail. I wondered if anyone had been atop the arch.

We plodded up the steep draw to the south, passing beneath the arch. From the uphill side of the arch, the best possibility lay up the chossy rock on the southeast side of the arch. I led diagonally up left, across loose, dirty cobbles to the notch on the east side of a pinnacle. The only pro was a #1 Tricam placed in a cleavage between cobbles at the start of the steep section below the notch.

I moved through the notch, then up to the summit of the pinnacle that looks down onto the arch from the east. Using the notch and pinnacle as my running belay, my wife lowered me down the west side of the pinnacle onto the arch, and I walked across it. There was no cairn or any other evidence of human passage. I left no trace, either. Refer to the attached photos.

I reversed the route, climbing almost to the top of the pinnacle and was then lowered toward the belayer, with the rope running around the pinnacle. The cobbles smoothed the rope's passage -- as long as they didn't break. Some did. I rate the climbing difficulty at 5.5X. Oct 5, 2012

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