Elevation: 6,867 ft
GPS: 39.557, -111.688 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,137 total · 225/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 5, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

The routes in this area are those accessed by traveling on the footpath in Maple Canyon’s Middle Fork.

Getting There

The Middle Fork trail starts at the rightward bend in the road near a large information sign with photographs (not the pay area sign) and near parking for several vehicles and heads west (the same direction as the road before the bend) past two campsites on the right.

43 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Fork Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
● The Great Chasm
Sport 3 pitches
Great Chasm
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
● Slamfire
Sport 4 pitches
Armory, The
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
● Warm & Soapy Lather
Sport
Lou's Tavern
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
● Buckshot
Sport
Matrix
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
● Sound the Klaxon
Sport
Matrix
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Phantom Fury
Sport 5 pitches
Armory, The
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
● Lock n' Load
Sport 5 pitches
Armory, The
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
● Twelve Tasty Donuts
Sport
Matrix
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
● Neo
Sport
Matrix
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 24
● Amenema
Sport
Matrix
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
● Amplification
Sport
Hot Zone
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Great Chasm Great Chasm
 83
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
● Slamfire Armory, The
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
● Warm & Soapy Lather Lou's Tavern
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Buckshot Matrix
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Sound the Klaxon Matrix
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Phantom Fury Armory, The
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
● Lock n' Load Armory, The
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
● Twelve Tasty Donuts Matrix
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Neo Matrix
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Amenema Matrix
 24
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Amplification Hot Zone
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Middle Fork »

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Photos

Getting lowered down the west side of the pinnacle, toward the top of the Natural Arch, Aug 29, 2011.
Getting lowered down the west side of the pinna…
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George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west) end of the Natural Arch, Aug 29, 2011. Despite visual competition from the sunlit tree canopies, the dark span of the arch and its lower edge are visible near the bottom of this photo. I found no cairn or other evidence of previous human visitation anywhere atop the arch. I left no trace of my visit.
George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west)…
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Leading up to the notch on the east side of the pinnacle that guards the arch from the east, Aug 29, 2011. This about where I placed a #1 Tricam. I have yet to move leftish to the pinnacle notch, which is the left, v-shaped notch in this photo.
Leading up to the notch on the east side of the…
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1 Comment

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George Bracksieck
George Bracksieck  
On Aug 29, 2011, my wife and I were searching for the Great Chasm route and failed to find it. We decided to check out the Natural Arch, farther up the Middle Fork trail. I wondered if anyone had been atop the arch.

We plodded up the steep draw to the south, passing beneath the arch. From the uphill side of the arch, the best possibility lay up the chossy rock on the southeast side of the arch. I led diagonally up left, across loose, dirty cobbles to the notch on the east side of a pinnacle. The only pro was a #1 Tricam placed in a cleavage between cobbles at the start of the steep section below the notch.

I moved through the notch, then up to the summit of the pinnacle that looks down onto the arch from the east. Using the notch and pinnacle as my running belay, my wife lowered me down the west side of the pinnacle onto the arch, and I walked across it. There was no cairn or any other evidence of human passage. I left no trace, either. Refer to the attached photos.

I reversed the route, climbing almost to the top of the pinnacle and was then lowered toward the belayer, with the rope running around the pinnacle. The cobbles smoothed the rope's passage -- as long as they didn't break. Some did. I rate the climbing difficulty at 5.5X. Oct 5, 2012