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Routes in The Hot Zone

Amplification S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Calm Horizons S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prime Meridian, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,325 total · 18/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 5, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

A pure endurance climb with no real cruxes, Amplification follows a small seam to the top of the wall.

A fun boulder problem gets things going. Then pull into a large corner and weave left and right between decent holds until you are forced to leave the corner. Follow a crack making slightly harder moves for another 30 feet until you get a rest below the steep final headwall. Luckily, the holds improve, so just manage your pump to the top.

This is probably the best 5.13 journey route at Maple. Like most routes at The Hot Zone, this route is still cleaning up. Otherwise, this would definitely get four stars.

Location

On the right flank of The Hot Zone. Look for an obvious seam/corner system.

Protection

Lots of bolts. The bolted anchors are equipped with chains.

Photos

Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
As of 9/22/13, the flake at the end of the initial boulder problem is about ready to come off. It used to flex a bit, but this is more that it used to. There are cracks at the base and you can see it moving and hear it cracking once you complete the sequence and lung to it. Needs some serious amount of glue behind it before this route becomes much harder and possibly injures someone.

Also, the bolt that's 2 above this section is coming out. More than just a spinner, the rock's eroding and it's looking pretty sketch. Sep 23, 2013
Jimmy Keithley
Salt Lake City, UT
Jimmy Keithley   Salt Lake City, UT
The WARI committee is going to add this to the routes we fix this summer! Apr 17, 2017
Bolted by Bill Boyle May 3, 2018
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
As of 05/19/18

missing bolt has been replaced. Flake is still there, sounds hollow as ever. It would take a large person reefing on it to get it off. Honestly I think it just needs a little glue to keep it around a little longer. Killer line! May 21, 2018
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
Very memorable line, FWIW it was in shade until around 2 pm on 5/19/18. Not your typical cobble climbing- it climbs more like an overhanging crack climb with ample face holds. think stemming, crimping, locking, good stuff! May 21, 2018
Jimmy Keithley
Salt Lake City, UT
Jimmy Keithley   Salt Lake City, UT
The bad bolt has been replaced. Thanks to the volunteer (Pat) and SLCA for the hardware Jun 3, 2018

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