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Routes in The Great Chasm

Great Chasm, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 14,375 total, 109/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Jan 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: Start on the arete and climb a FULL 60M to anchors on the ledge. (20 bolts, bring long draws to reduce rope drag).

Pitch 2: Move right 40' to a pod with anchors.

Pitch 3: Ascend the wall above (crux) to anchors on the left at a small outcropping. Continue to the summit and sign the register.

Location

Approach: The trail to the base of the route is about 40 yards before you come to the Matrix. The route is on the south side of the drainage, or left of the drainage if you are facing up-canyon. If you go too far and arrive at the Matrix, the route is behind you and slightly down-canyon. The route starts on the obvious arete left of the Raspberry/Fern filled gully.

Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60M rope. From the anchors at the end of P3, rap 30' past the pod (end of P2) to anchors on the right. They are found above a small shelf. From there it is another 30M to the top of the fern/raspberry filled gully.

Protection

15 quickdraws, 5 long (12") quichdraws and something for the anchors. P1 is VERY long...a full 60M. And it wanders a little. Short quickdraws will result in some pretty hefty rope drag. Bring some long draws to reduce rope drag.
Kendra Davis
  5.7
Kendra Davis  
  5.7
Sorry, our group of 3 was climbing today and had to bail after the first pitch. Without realizing where the second pitch belay/rappel station was we tied our ropes together and rappelled using the anchor of P1 and some quicklinks. At the bottom we realized our mistake since the friction is too great to actually pull the ropes down. Would the next person up please take down our ropes (which should be discarded at this point), and also remove the quicklinks to avoid misleading others? Again, sorry to leave a mess. Nov 11, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.7
The original summit register book is all filled up. If you're heading up it would be awesome if you could take a new notebook up there. The summit register is a large ammo can so a full-size notebook will fit in there. Plenty of pens. Jun 8, 2017
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
Great route to simul-climb. easy, consistent climbing, plus it REALLY helps reduce the rope drag Dec 24, 2016
Ryan-T
Edgewater, CO
  5.7
Ryan-T   Edgewater, CO
  5.7
Such an awesome route! We did it as our last climb during our trip to Maple. The first pitch is pretty long, but a great way to set up the climb up. The third pitch was fantastic and led to a neat summit to look over the canyon. The rap was not too bad. When doing the second rap from the belay pod just go slow and keep your eyes trained to climbers right. The bolts are there, but I could see cruising past them. Thanks for these sweet moderate multi-pitches! Sep 25, 2015
Cameron Anderson
Ogden, Utah
  5.7+
Cameron Anderson   Ogden, Utah
  5.7+
The final rappel anchors were pretty hard to see. When rapping from the bottom of P3, go down to the obvious big ledge and the anchors will be climber's right on the wall next to you. I wouldn't say they're on an arete, more just on the face. My partner couldn't find them so he ended up single stranding to the ground and sending up a second rope to me. Just look carefully, they are there. Jul 13, 2015
I did this route today, and we didn't notice the second set of rap anchors. Instead, we rapped from the p2 anchors. I noticed I was near the knots at the end of our single 60m rope and made my way to the right. I was able to get to a small ledge where I could remove my ATC and down climb. Not the most comfortable situation, but ended up okay.

The anchor at the end of the second pitch is lower and more to the left than my partner expected. The ledge at the top is comfortable to walk around on, but getting to and from the anchor is a bit nervy.

There is a summit registry. My partner ended up belaying me to it so we didn't get a summit photo together.

It was a fun route. Thanks for adding the bolts. Even if they add drag, they make it easier to stay on route. Jun 14, 2015
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This route makes for a very fun outing with awesome views. Short approach and easy climbing. My friend, who just started leading, led both pitches and she loved it! Just a thought, I found the rap bolts for the 3rd rap to be in a bad location. I rapped past without seeing them, then had to climb back up to them. They are on the far right wall as you rap, hard to see, and are a bit of a scramble to get to. They are also on a very small ledge which makes it hard if you have more than two people. The logical place for a rap station seemed to be the ledge that is slightly up and left. It is right in-line with the anchors in the pod and big enough to park a bus on. My 60M had plenty of rope left to get down from there. Aug 13, 2012
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Excellent climb! Prior to the most updated Knezek guide being published beta was way off for this route, from approach directions to pitch information. Glad to see there is some better info out there now.

Fun cobble pulling off the beaten path enough and with exposure enough to make this climb feel adventurous. Beautiful views all the way up the climb. Pitch 2 isn't really a pitch, just a short traverse on a good ledge to pitch 3's belay anchors. There is one or two exposed moves on the traverse where you don't want to slip.

Thanks for putting this route in! Jul 23, 2012
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
 
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
 
Jason's comment above explained it pretty well:

"I added a rappel station to the descent so that the route can be climbed and descended in it's entirety with a single 60M rope."

Here it is spelled out:

60m Rope Rappel Instructions:
1) Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod)
2) Rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to anchors at right on an arete
3) Rap from there to the ground

70m Rope Rappel Instructions:
1) Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod)
2) Rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to the ground (rope stretcher)

Maybe Jason could update the route description as well. Jun 15, 2012
tpatpat  
So when you rap off you just tie two ropes togther?? Jun 14, 2012
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
 
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
 
No walk-off tpatpat. A fun route though. Amazing view of Maple Canyon from the top. Get on it! Jun 13, 2012
tpatpat  
is there a walk off? Jun 12, 2012
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
6.30.11

I added a rappel station to the descent so that the route can be climbed and descended in it's entirety with a single 60M rope.

Rappel instructions: Rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2 (the pod), rap from the top of pitch 2 (the pod) to anchors at right on an arete. Rap from there to the ground.

I also added a few bolts to the first pitch. There were at least 3 sections of 20-25' runnouts. In maple that is just not necessary. A blown cobble and an off-balance, unexpected fall could result in broken limbs or death. I HIGHLY recommend long draws for P1 or rope drag will lock you down tight. There are 16 bolts on the first pitch and it wanders a bit.

I also moved the first belay station a little to the left. It is now more in-line with the climbing on the first pitch and gives you about 12' of extra rope to work with.

Enjoy!

Jason Stevens Jul 1, 2011
Lee Jensen  
 
A must do route for the grade with amazing views and position.

To find the route head up the middle fork trail towards the natural arch. After about ten minutes of walking you will pass a large cobble boulder (bigger than a car) on the right of the trail. Turn to your left, leave the trail, and cross the stream. If miss the boulder, the trail soon cross the stream. That should be your sign to turn around and go back about 150 feet. After you have crossed the stream at the boulder you will see a more defined trail heading to your right along the base of the cliff. Follow this up until you head into a fern filled gully with a line of bolts on an arete.

The first pitch is 5.5 and takes a full 60m.

The second pitch is a short traverse with one exposed fourth class move with no protection. It would be interesting to see if there was a way to easily combine this with the first pitch.

When you rap off from the second pitch you will end up at the top of the fern filled gully about 100 feet from where you started. A full single 70m rope will make it to the bottom, but you must swing around the corner to your right so that you are at the very top of the gully. Aug 17, 2009
darrell hodges  
  5.7
The first pitch is bolted in such a way that you won't have to worry about z-clipping at all.
We rapped off with one rope (70M). We BARELY made it, thanks to rope stretch. To do it, you have scootch way over to the right where the ground slopes up. Even then, our ATCs were right up against the knots in the end of our rope when our feet touched the ground (we simul rapped).

Great climb. Very enjoyable. It was nice and shady all morning and even though the canyon was packed we had this all to ourselves. It was very quiet and the view off the top is awesome.
I highly recommend this climb. Jul 26, 2009
Darren Knezek
  5.7
Darren Knezek  
  5.7
I rapped the route with one rope, it was a 70-meter, but there was plenty of rope left. Jun 16, 2008
grizz Burton
  5.7+
grizz Burton  
  5.7+
After searching a bit for this route, my partner and I enjoyed it. It was his first multipitch climb. I was a bit surprised by the run out of the first pitch but it was on easy climbing. The third pitch is the money pitch for sure although it is short. I have to complain about some bad beta I received from another website specific to Maple Canyon. In its description it states "it can be climbed with one rope". Well, guess what? You can't get back to the ground with one rope which left us with about 25' of 5.5ish downclimbing. Jun 16, 2008
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
I did this climb with my wife on our anniversary years ago after jason told us about it. since then i've taken people up this wondrous thing 5-6 times. It really is a nice easy climb with fantastic views. A touring route. Wear a helmut, rockfall is possible especially on the rappell. Also you'll need two ropes. The first pitch is way run out but easy. The last pitch is the funnest with huge cobbles for holds. Take your time and enjoy. Nov 9, 2007
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.7
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.7
Thanks for these multi-pitch routes, Jason Stevens. it's quite a joy to break up the routine climbing at Maple with routes like this! Nov 7, 2007