Metropolis Rock Climbing
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44.12829, -107.2577 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Like several of the crags in this area, Metropolis has a lower angle 50 foot intro section caped by another 50 feet of steeper bulges. The lower section is home to a disconcerting number of cracks, making Metropolis one of the few "moderate meccas" in Ten Sleep. There are a handful of good 5.9 and 5.10- pitches. The upper section features several more demanding 5.12 to 5.13- 'extensions'. Also, the nearby Daily Planet boulder hosts a half dozen shorter steep, powerful routes.
Getting There
Metropolis has the distinction of being located midway between two large crags, 'Downtown' and 'Mondo Beyondo', each with its own approach trail.
The Pullout for Downtown is the second one on the right (Southeast) side of the road after the switchback. Walk the 15 minute approach up toward the 'Cigar' then turn right to walk along the rising trail at the base of the cliff line past the 'Nugget' and 'Vulvus Godzilicus'. Metropolis is a few minutes past these and the next crag you come to.
The Mondo pullout is the next one located on the left (Northwest) and is generally full of climber trash vehicles all scampering up to have a go at Beer Bong, Schools Out, EKV or the like. Parking here for a day at Metropolis seems silly since there is an alternative. If you do begin your trek here, walk the trail up toward the slavery wall, not the one through the forested gully that brings you to the boulder in the woods. Once you are on the switchbacks in the trees, take the left trail near the top and walk over towards World Domination Wall. Follow the trail downhill along the cliff line passing Frat Boy Wall, Antarctica and eventually coming up on top of or below the Daily Planet Boulder. Metropolis is the wall behind the boulder.
The Pullout for Downtown is the second one on the right (Southeast) side of the road after the switchback. Walk the 15 minute approach up toward the 'Cigar' then turn right to walk along the rising trail at the base of the cliff line past the 'Nugget' and 'Vulvus Godzilicus'. Metropolis is a few minutes past these and the next crag you come to.
The Mondo pullout is the next one located on the left (Northwest) and is generally full of climber trash vehicles all scampering up to have a go at Beer Bong, Schools Out, EKV or the like. Parking here for a day at Metropolis seems silly since there is an alternative. If you do begin your trek here, walk the trail up toward the slavery wall, not the one through the forested gully that brings you to the boulder in the woods. Once you are on the switchbacks in the trees, take the left trail near the top and walk over towards World Domination Wall. Follow the trail downhill along the cliff line passing Frat Boy Wall, Antarctica and eventually coming up on top of or below the Daily Planet Boulder. Metropolis is the wall behind the boulder.
Classic Climbing Routes at Metropolis
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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