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Routes in Metropolis

Angry Orange S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Narcissist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Captain Tombstoner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Censor This S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Choking Lois S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crux Luthor S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fortress of Solitude S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gettin' Rich S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus Christ Super Jew S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jesus Christ Super Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judas S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Luthor S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
MechaJudas Super Villain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mining Space Rocks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moldyfinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poking Lois S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Selling Air S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Solid Gold Secret Sauce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad Dad Destroyer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 218 total · 2/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack by whatever technique you choose. If you jam, the crux comes just before the top, if you layback, I have no idea when it comes. If you're feeling strong, bring 6 more draws, clip the anchors for pro, and punch it to the second set of anchors for a 5.12 called "Lex Luthor".

Location

The distinctive right facing dihedral at Metropolis with a handcrack in it.

Protection

9(?) bolts. Or you could protect it with a double set of cams to #3 camalot. Yes its a bolted crack. Yes I'm ok with that.

Photos

Jim Hausmann
Richmond, TX
Jim Hausmann   Richmond, TX
FA was Aaron Huey, about 1999. Jul 28, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9-
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9-
Bolted cracks are fine on limestone sport meccas. It's all the rage with the kids these days.

Sent this lieback with plenty of face features. Partner put this one up trad style in the OW. We both felt it was a soft 9. Lotta fun either way! Oct 3, 2011
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
Actually the extension is called Crux Luthor and the FA does go to AH, circa 1998. Sep 3, 2012

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