Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 1,165 total · 13/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on Aug 21, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb the hand crack to an optional anchor (5.9 to here). Skip the anchor and follow the flared corner on stems, pockets and finger locks to the upper anchor. FUN!

Location

Right side of Metropolis

Protection

16 bolts plus anchors

Photos

Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a/b
A note on the "10d" first pitch.

Er.....WHAT?!?!

Guys. There's this thing? It's called technique?

Anywhere on the planet, this little jam beauty would easily go at 9, as Lawrence here has it. NOT 10d as the new guidebook has it. Probably an 8 in Yosum.

I KNOW grade inflation pumps the ego...but PUHL-EEZE! Let's AT LEAST keep it somewhere in the neighborhood of real. Oct 3, 2011
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.11b
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.11b
Yes the new guidebook has the brilliant first pitch at 5.10d. Please remember that Aaron Huey and many of the regular 1st ascentionists in Ten Sleep are sport climbers and really don't have good 'technique' for cracks. That being said I would place it at .10- based on the first two or three moves alone. I have climbed most of the 5.11's in Tensleep and somehow I glossed over this beautiful gem. This is perhaps one of Ten Sleeps finest climbs of any grade. The guidebook also says 'you must do the whole thing - DON'T JUST DO THE BOTTOM!' I defintely agree. Sep 3, 2012
Kenan
  5.11b
Kenan  
  5.11b
This route is amazing! A 50-foot hand crack followed by a 50-foot steep pocketed dihedral?! So classic! It has a very adventurous feel, and is quite uncharacteristic of Ten Sleep with the pure crack start.

I'd have to agree that the crack is probably 5.9, despite it feeling much harder to people without crack climbing experience.

The moves and position up high are really stellar. To echo the sentiment: YOU MUST DO THE UPPER PART!! Sep 3, 2013
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
This is a great route! Upper section is amazing, be sure to keep going all the way to the top.

My two cents on the crack: Since the very bottom is flared downwards, getting off the ground requires some "thuggy" moves. Those with good upper body strength can lock off on a single good jam and poor feet to move upwards without much problem. For those lacking in the arm department, the bottom may seem quite tricky.
With that said, after you're off the ground, it's easy cruising to the first set of anchors Mar 3, 2017