Elevation: 577 ft
GPS: 58.3095, -134.5605
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Shared By: parkclimbs on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

Description

Juneau holds several small crags along the road system with a variety of rock and styles of climbing. Everything from bouldering, to sport climbing - even a few trad lines exist. Approaches can be a bit tricky, the rock can be a bit dirty, but the climbs are of fine quality and the locations are almost always incredible. Bring a brush and some bug repellent. For most of the climbs you need no more than ten draws and a 60m rope. Route descriptions will let you know of anything else that may be helpful.

Getting There

Juneau is accessible only by boat or plane. While it is generally not a climbing destination, if you are visiting it can't hurt to bring along your shoes and a rope. If you are going to be here for the summer, you may want to bring along your rack; the Juneau Ice Field has several impressive granite spires that make for excellent alpine climbs.

138 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Juneau

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Solva Buttress
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Two Thumbs Up
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Farm Boss
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
 3
Fogels-Visscher
Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
South Buttress
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Pin Cushion
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Bump it up
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
The Black Gate
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Anal secretions
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Super Hooper
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
The Flood
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
The Crows Nest
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Sanity Break
TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Svenson's Crack
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Longliner
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Solva Buttress Mendenhall Towers > 5th Tower
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Two Thumbs Up Split Thumb
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Farm Boss Jaw Point > N Fins > 3rd Fin
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fogels-Visscher Mendenhall Towers > 1st Tower - W Tower
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid, Alpine 8 pitches
South Buttress Mendenhall Towers > 3rd Tower - Main
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Pin Cushion Sea Cliffs
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bump it up Hard Sea Cliffs
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
The Black Gate Tee Harbor > Eyes of the World
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Anal secretions Hard Sea Cliffs
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Super Hooper Jaw Point > N Fins > 3rd Fin
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
The Flood Jaw Point > N Fins > 3rd Fin
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
The Crows Nest Jaw Point > N Gully > Right Mandible
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Sanity Break Hard Sea Cliffs
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Svenson's Crack Jaw Point > N Fins > 2nd Fin
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Longliner Hard Sea Cliffs
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
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