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Routes in Mendenhall Towers

5th Element - Fifth Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Balancing Act - West Tower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fogels-Visscher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Great White Conqueror T AI4 M5+ A1
Iron Curtian T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mountaineer's Route - Main Tower T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sixth Sense - Sixth Tower, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solva Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Buttress - Main Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Description

Located about 12 miles north of Juneau this 7 summited massif has numerous routes from 500ft to 2500ft. The south faces are much cleaner but shorter than those on the north.

Getting There

There are several ways to get out there, ski from blackerby ridge north until you reach the north branch of the mendenhall glacier. Or head directly up the mendenhall glacier via the west glacier trail. Most parties however just take the 15-20 minute flight from Juneau with coastal helicopters.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mendenhall Towers

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Solva Buttress
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
South Buttress - Main Tower
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Solva Buttress
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
South Buttress - Main Tower
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
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Photos

Planning on a trip to the south side of Main Tower next june to climb the Mountaineers Route - anyone with knowledge of route willing to answer a couple of questions?

Thanks! Sep 8, 2015

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