GPS: 44.296, -103.89 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

This wall defines "Sunshine". There may be a foot of snow on the ground... but it's more than likely the wall will be quite nice. High concentration of 5.9 to 10d. Excellent for the hardman to warm up... and the novice to enjoy all day long.

Getting There

Take the Sunshine approach trail. Turn left at the wall and walk about 3 or 4 minutes. Obvious "Big Black Face" with 13 or 14 bolted lines.

14 Total Climbs

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Location: Big Black Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Black Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 99
● Pakistani Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
● Black Sheets of Rain
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Johnny Walker Black
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
● Land Speed Record
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
● Sergeant Lincoln Osirus
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 23
● Candy Apple Gray
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
● Cougar's Pupil
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
● Under the Gun
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Pakistani Route
 99
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Black Sheets of Rain
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Johnny Walker Black
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Land Speed Record
 29
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Sergeant Lincoln Osirus
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● Candy Apple Gray
 23
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Cougar's Pupil
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Under the Gun
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Big Black Face »

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Photos

Can't remember which route, was a 5.10d. April 23, 2004.
Can't remember which route, was a 5.10d. April…
 0
The Big Black Face. The rope is hanging on Black Sheets of Rain, 5.10a<br> <br> The Sunshine Wall, Spearfish Canyon.<br> South Dakota.
The Big Black Face. The rope is hanging on Blac…
 0
The Gunnels clan on "Pakistani Route" and "Lost Ninja"...
The Gunnels clan on "Pakistani Route" and "Lost…
 0

7 Comments

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Christian B. Baird
Christian B. Baird  
Just about got taken out by rockfall from above the other day,
ohh like half a basketball hurdling at my face
be aware of melty conditions at this wall. Apr 9, 2008
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
If you look at the guide book for Sunshine it shows Lost Ninja as the left most route on the Big Black Face. That is now wrong. The left most route on that wall is a new 5.9+/5.10- that was put up by John Walker a few years ago. The route you asked about is actually Lost Ninja. At one time there was a plaque at the base of the new route, you are not the first person to get mixed up. There should be a new guide book next year to stop the confusion.
Big Black Face from the steep wall to left now goes
Proj, Proj, 12a, 9+, 11c, 9+/10-, 9, 10a, 10d, 10b, 10d, Sep 1, 2009
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
There are seven routes on the main Big Black Face. I believe only four are listed here. Anyone know the rest? Apr 24, 2010
R.Walters
R.Walters  
Jon, see comment above.

Mike, I think there is one more route right of the long 10d Husker Don't. I'm not sure if you knew this already but you might want to check if you don't have it in your notes. I think it goes at mid ten. Apr 24, 2010
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
Reggie
I will check that out. Thanks for the info.
Mike Apr 24, 2010
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
No route on this wall is pg-13 in my opinion. I also feel these are some of the best routes for the grade in the canyon. There is very little loose rock on the routes, they have fun and varied movement, the routes are as long as they get in the canyon, and they probably see as much traffic as any routes in the canyon. Unsure of why they were given such low star ratings in the guide. I might be biased though. Jul 13, 2010
BBQ
BBQ  
Seeking a winter climbing area with lots and lots of sunlight baking the rock to sending temperature perfection? This is the place! Nice mud free belays and black rock make this place like the beach. You can climb in a T-Shirt in January.

However, on a cautionary note on warms days when there is a lot of melting snow be careful for rockfall! Helmets are not a bad idea when climbing and belaying. Also on that note, on warm days that had a lot of snowfall proceeding them a few climbs, if not all the climbs may have water running down them. This doesn't happen a lot though, for the most part the Big Black Face is like Heaven. A great place to stay warm when climbing during cold months.

Sidenote: Cougar's Pupil, Eye of the Tiger and Cougar's Tail are described in the new guidebook as being members of what is now known as "The Cat Wall". Nov 29, 2011