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Routes in Big Black Face

Black Sheets of Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Apple Gray S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cougar's Pupil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cougar's Tail S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eye of the Tiger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Husker Don't S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Land Speed Record S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Ninja S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pakistani Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sir Slabs A Lot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Under the Gun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiley Coyote S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description

This wall defines "Sunshine". There may be a foot of snow on the ground... but it's more than likely the wall will be quite nice. High concentration of 5.9 to 10d. Excellent for the hardman to warm up... and the novice to enjoy all day long.

Getting There

Take the Sunshine approach trail. Turn left at the wall and walk about 3 or 4 minutes. Obvious "Big Black Face" with 13 or 14 bolted lines.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Black Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Big Black Face »

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BBQ
BBQ  
Seeking a winter climbing area with lots and lots of sunlight baking the rock to sending temperature perfection? This is the place! Nice mud free belays and black rock make this place like the beach. You can climb in a T-Shirt in January.

However, on a cautionary note on warms days when there is a lot of melting snow be careful for rockfall! Helmets are not a bad idea when climbing and belaying. Also on that note, on warm days that had a lot of snowfall proceeding them a few climbs, if not all the climbs may have water running down them. This doesn't happen a lot though, for the most part the Big Black Face is like Heaven. A great place to stay warm when climbing during cold months.

Sidenote: Cougar's Pupil, Eye of the Tiger and Cougar's Tail are described in the new guidebook as being members of what is now known as "The Cat Wall". Nov 29, 2011
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
No route on this wall is pg-13 in my opinion. I also feel these are some of the best routes for the grade in the canyon. There is very little loose rock on the routes, they have fun and varied movement, the routes are as long as they get in the canyon, and they probably see as much traffic as any routes in the canyon. Unsure of why they were given such low star ratings in the guide. I might be biased though. Jul 13, 2010
Reggie
I will check that out. Thanks for the info.
Mike Apr 24, 2010
Jon, see comment above.

Mike, I think there is one more route right of the long 10d Husker Don't. I'm not sure if you knew this already but you might want to check if you don't have it in your notes. I think it goes at mid ten. Apr 24, 2010
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
There are seven routes on the main Big Black Face. I believe only four are listed here. Anyone know the rest? Apr 24, 2010
If you look at the guide book for Sunshine it shows Lost Ninja as the left most route on the Big Black Face. That is now wrong. The left most route on that wall is a new 5.9+/5.10- that was put up by John Walker a few years ago. The route you asked about is actually Lost Ninja. At one time there was a plaque at the base of the new route, you are not the first person to get mixed up. There should be a new guide book next year to stop the confusion.
Big Black Face from the steep wall to left now goes
Proj, Proj, 12a, 9+, 11c, 9+/10-, 9, 10a, 10d, 10b, 10d, Sep 1, 2009
Just about got taken out by rockfall from above the other day,
ohh like half a basketball hurdling at my face
be aware of melty conditions at this wall. Apr 9, 2008

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