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Routes in Big Black Face

Black Sheets of Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Apple Gray S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cougar's Pupil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cougar's Tail S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eye of the Tiger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Husker Don't S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Johnny Walker Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Speed Record S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Ninja S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pakistani Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sergeant Lincoln Osirus S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sir Slabs A Lot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Under the Gun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiley Coyote S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 4,590 total · 36/month
Shared By: John Gunnels on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

Step left off the initial block to make your first clip. Follow the stellar pockets to the fifth bolt where one steps left an follows the arete' to the anchors. Crux may be the first lieback... but pump factor increases the difficulty of the ending mantel.

Location

Note the pillar immediately left of the double crack system in the corner. Follow the bolt line thru the face and out the left arete' above.

Protection

9 bolts... GREAT placement
Deaun Schovajsa
  5.10-
Deaun Schovajsa  
  5.10-
This is a nice warm up route for this area. Steep, good holds all the way. I thought that this was easier and more straight forward than the 5.9 to the right (Lost Ninja). Jul 14, 2008
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
Deaun
Lost Ninja is actually three routes right of Pakistani Route. A new 5.10 was put up in a few years ago. There was a plaque marking the new route, must have been lost. How was the rest of your canyon trip? Hope it was good. Jul 14, 2008
Deaun Schovajsa
  5.10-
Deaun Schovajsa  
  5.10-
Thanks Mike! We had a great time and enjoyed all of the areas that you directed us to. Charley and I felt like the grades from about 5.11a and harder were pretty close to what we were used to and the easier grades felt a little (or at times a lot) stiff.

The pocketed stone is some of the best I've seen - just beautiful.

Thanks again for all of your help and say hi to your wife and daughter from us! Jul 17, 2008
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
 
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
 
I would say this route is more like 70 plus feet, but there should be no problem lowering off with any modern rope. Mike Aug 30, 2010
BBQ
  5.10a
BBQ  
  5.10a
blackhillsclimbingguide.com/

All this and more! Get the new guidebook!

It's awesome! Sep 8, 2011
Travis Bieber
Spearfish, SD
 
Travis Bieber   Spearfish, SD
 
Awesome route. Perfect warm up for the Big Black Face. Great pockets leads to a very exposed move mid way up. Classic climb Feb 27, 2018
Matt May
Berkeley, CA
 
Matt May   Berkeley, CA
 
Watch out for a wasp nest in a hold between 2nd and 3rd bolt on the right hand side. I was stung and took unexpected nasty fall. Got back up there and finished the route! Jul 30, 2018 · Temporary Report

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