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Routes in Big Black Face

Black Sheets of Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Candy Apple Gray S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cougar's Pupil S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cougar's Tail S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eye of the Tiger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Husker Don't S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Johnny Walker Black S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Speed Record S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Ninja S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pakistani Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sergeant Lincoln Osirus S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sir Slabs A Lot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Under the Gun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiley Coyote S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 1,320 total · 12/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jan 3, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

An abosolute must do! A 5.10a meant to keep 5.10 climbers honest. This is one of the best damn climbs at this grade, but has a hard-ass roof pull crux that would make Ghandi want to punch a nun in the face.

However, with that said, once you throw yourself against this climb enough and work out the beta you will fall in love with it and want to do it over and over again. Routes graded 5.10- should not be give-aways that any douche can crawl up and this is a route that reaffirms this grade and gives a much needed challenge.

Get on this thing! You will love it! It has everything a 5.10 should have! Big pockets! Bomber holds! The crux is a wild roof pull to even harder terain and the route finishes up on slab that will have you praying for the anchors. This climb is harder and more rewarding than just about any 5.10a I've climbed anywhere else in the country.

Get on it and learn to work for that red point!

Protection

10 quickdraws

Photos

Dreez
  5.10a
Dreez  
  5.10a
wow what a cool route

mostly 5.9 great bolting 2 moves 5.10 above roof Jul 4, 2014
Max Grossman
  5.10a
Max Grossman  
  5.10a
I was climbing this and decided to take a small lead fall to ease the outdoor nerves. Clipped the bolt below the roof, pulled my hips over the lip, and let go. Unfortunately the bolt ripped out (I'm 185 lbs; nothing super heavy), I was flipped, and was caught upside down about 20 feet down. We left a note at the climb's base, but heads up that it's a bit run out there. Jul 29, 2014
Mikel Cronin
Rapid City, SD
Mikel Cronin   Rapid City, SD
Max
Sorry to hear that you had a bolt pull out. Glad you are ok! I will make the needed repair with a bigger and better bolt. Aug 1, 2014

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