Just an hour North of Madrid, La Pedriza has to be one of the best granite climbing areas in Spain. Many call it a paradise. La Pedriza is a big regional park in the mountains outside of Madrid. It is a fairly large park, but inside it's boundaries there is a lot of rock. Although you'll find cracks and face climbing, "Pedri" known for the vast quantity and quality of hard friction climbs. It's rumored that 5.10 sticky rubber was first tested here. Believe it or not, this place has some of the hardest slab routes in the country. Up to mid 5.13. Be careful with lower graded routes in the 5.9/V range because they can be really ran out. Here you'll find a large variety of single and multi-pitch routes (up to 6 pitches). The normal rack is a set of quick draws and a single set of cams and nuts. There is tons of bouldering here as well so don't be afraid to bring your crash pad. Late Fall, Winter and early spring are the best times to climb here. Don't even think of coming here in the Summer. Final note, the rock here is super abrasive. For cracks bring tape. The it's as abrasive or more than Joshua Tree.

Getting There

Go North out of Madrid on M-607 towards Manzanares Real. Once at the small town look for signs, which are hard to see, or ask someone. If your coming in on 607, go past the castle, through a round-about and look for the entrance on your right.

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Hey everyone,
I am moving to Madrid this fall for university and was wondering if anyone had any good beta for this area or any areas closer to Madrid. also if anyone lives in Madrid and goes to a good climbing gym please let me know where it is. Thank you!

p.s. if anyone wants to climb in madrid message me, I will need a partner! Jul 18, 2011
hey nick how'd u make out ? i'm coming to madrid in april and looking for a partner...sent u a pm as well Mar 14, 2012
Jose Ortega
Navas del Rey, Spain
Jose Ortega   Navas del Rey, Spain
The best crag in La Pedriza is "El Pajaro", for many, the high concentration of three stars trad routes: cracks, off width, friction, face climbing.
Some must-do it routes are: Sur clasica (6a), Este-Pedro Ramos (6a), West face (oeste) 6c, Tino 6a/A0 7a+,La Aparecida (6c+/A0 o 7b+).
The second in rating is El Yelmo. Awesome Trad climbing in friction. Don´t miss: Guirles (6b)or the scary Galvez (huge runouts, but amazing)...if you lead it, never forget...

If you are looking hard friction routes, don´t miss "El Euro crag" some of the best 5.13´ to 5.14

In La Pedriza exist also some face climbing with holds, in many places called mushrooms (La pared de Santillana, great easy trad climbing...runouts but easy)

Recommended visit: all year round but if you are looking for hard friction routes, only winter. Too hot in summer.

Enjoy!!! more than 2000 routes Jul 24, 2012
hey all this comment is a little late (only by a few years) but anyone still out in spain madrid? im going to be heading out to spain soon and was looking for some more info on the bouldering in la pedriza as there is hardly anything on the web. Ive heard such great things but it still seems so undeveloped any knowledge at all would be welcome :)

cheers Jack Jul 31, 2014
hey, I live in Madrid and while I am still a baby climber, I have been looking for a climbing mate to have some adventures with. I'm thinking about heading up to La Pedriza this weekend just to get a scope on the place, maybe do some bouldering, and some light climbing.

-Pixie Sep 11, 2014
I'm going to be in Madrid until the 20th. I won't have a lot of time free but I'll have the whole day on Friday May 19 if anyone's interested in bouldering/light top roping. I'd love to get out May 12, 2017