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Routes in Out-of-Towners Dome

After The Beforetime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Aribas Ameobas T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Close To The Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Down and Outers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
El Cautivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Of El Cautivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out-of-Towners, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description [Suggest Change]

A good south-facing wall that gets all-day sun even in winter. But after spending 3 days on the wall between christmas and new years, on warm sunny days, I still have yet to see another party on it. Out sole company was a beautiful Redtail Hawk who wheeled overhead and underfoot on all 3 days to observe us.

This wall offers several well-documented lines and many many undocumented lines. At times, finding which line is which must be done by carefully studying the relative positions of the cracks and bolt lines relative to the shadows of overlaps and water-stains on the wall.

The climb 'Out Of Towners' is seemingly most acclaimed line on the wall, but Aribas Amoebas, and the route left of El Cautivo are certainly good routes and worthwhile. However, the lines here vary from outright clip-ups to wandering and somewhat runout and vague and dirty crack systems. Not every route here deserves to be climbed.

To descend from the wall there are certainly good and bad options, but these are impossible to define in more than vague terms, so that will be as much as I can realistically provide. In some spots forced passage will be evident and in others, not so much. It will take 40-60 minutes and will involve some bushwhacking and scrambling. Wear hearty clothing or you'll trash it.

Descent: head to the West on the summit ridge until you see a cairn, then drop down North into a hallway of sorts and continue West toward the end of the main dome. As the dome breaks down, start heading back West/Southwest into a gully. You will pass though an over/under 'cave' between boulders and then Eventually you will reach a choked gully with some bush-whacking and descend back due South, staying near the rock. If you go too far North here, it will make things far worse. Cross back Southeast on a slab, back through some more boulder hopping, then back East along the base to the climbs where you started.
I am more presently informed by a local that rapping off from 'Out Of Towners' or 'El Cautivo' is possible, but I suspect 2 ropes are needed.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

The approach is similar to that of the one to Wasteland and will take 35-60 minutes depending on your pace. Start from the parking pullout and head in past a few 'shinspears,' 'cat-claws,' and Agave to reach the drainage and Wasteland approach, which is followed up to the gully where it turns uphill. There, stay left twice at broken down trees. The trail here was once very easy to miss, but as of 2018, it is said to be well traveled and cairned, and should not be hard to follow anymore. Still, If you are going up the drainage to Wasteland, you have gone slightly too far. Follow a trail left to below the Out Of Towners Dome, which is the next formation West of Wasteland... then up the hill. I built perhaps 30 new Cairns here at many spots of ambiguity of the trail- and though small, they are easy to find. This trail should be quite easy to find and follow.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Out-of-Towners Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Left Of El Cautivo
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
El Cautivo
Sport 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
The Out-of-Towners
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 17
Aribas Ameobas
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Down and Outers
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Of El Cautivo
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
El Cautivo
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
The Out-of-Towners
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Aribas Ameobas
 17
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Down and Outers
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Out-of-Towners Dome »

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Tony is correct, it is very easy to miss the easy approach to the dome! The main trail receives much traffic for the Wasteland routes. Do not go very far up the Wasteland drainage. In fact, look for a faint trail going left across the Wasteland drainage about where the rock starts on the right in the drainage. If one makes the correct turn, the trail is much easier to follow up the dome. Mar 31, 2008
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
To reach a good rap descent, head to the top of the dome and look for a huge cleft inline with the ridge that has some ample dirt flooring down in the cleft in places. Enter this at the west end and travel it's length to the opposite end where you'll find a tree around 8 or so inches in diameter. Climb up between the tree and rock at left, into a V-notch. Travel the V-notch and, when you can, drop down right onto a cozy ledge at the edge of the dome's face. Find chained anchors a little out on the face and to skier's right about ten feet; the chained anchors are visible from the cozy ledge.

There are three double-rope raps via two more chained anchors directly below the top chained anchor. The second rap appears to be just slightly more than a 30 meters; the first and last rap are longer. Apr 13, 2011
I'm surprised ta how overgrown the main trail was, particularly the initial part. There must not be much traffic on Wastelands or Out of Towners - way less traveled than Sheepshead or Rockfellow. Here's a couple of tips: the first part of the trail is never in the drainage. You're always up 20 - 100 feet on the hill to the right once the trail turns left into the drainage below Entrance dome. There are plenty of small cairns but the trail itself is hard to spot in places. Once you hit the drainage coming down from Wastelands you go up about 100' before cutting left. If you don't you'll find plenty of small cairns and even some tape on the trees, but you're still in the wrong place. The approach is well cairned so don't wander around following intermittent bits of trail that don't connect! Oct 11, 2016
Justin Headley   Tucson
There are lots of cairns on the trail, and shrubs have been trimmed back. We had no problem following the trail. There are A LOT of bolted lines on this dome now, and most aren't listed here on MP. Make sure you're certain of what route you're on. Jan 7, 2018
ALL the routes are listed very clearly in the Cochise Stronghold: East Side Guidebook. I spent many days on this wall exploring the old and new routes and was so impressed with the rock quality. The trail was worked on extensively and it must be getting some traffic now so I am glad that the approach is no longer a huge deterrent. Definitely check it out. Feb 4, 2018

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