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Routes in Out-of-Towners Dome

After The Beforetime T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Aribas Ameobas T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Close To The Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Down and Outers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
El Cautivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Of El Cautivo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Out-of-Towners, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby 1997
Page Views: 1,318 total, 16/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Nov 28, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route with sustained and varied climbing. Kerry's guide has a good photo but little other beta.

Pitch one is a 4 star sustained 5.10 slab & face pitch for nearly 200 feet to a bolt anchor, optional mid-size cam at 3/4 height.

Pitch two steps left and up a bolted 5.9 slab right of a dirty crack. At slab's end, move left to the crack (although cleaner and steeper now, this crack isn't anything to get excited about). At the top, left past 2 bolts to the anchor.

Pitch three heads up left and then straight up following bolts up steep and pumpy 5.9+. Great climbing, great contrast to the slabbing below. Eventually the climbing eases off to an anchor just right of a large nopal. I think I placed one piece, a 0.75 camalot on this pitch.

You need two ropes two rappel. First rap is to the anchor atop pitch 2, second down and left to an anchor on another route. Or, do the walk-off described on the rock page.

Location

Finding the start is the crux because of all the new undocumented routes that look exactly alike. From the ramp in the middle of the face (directly below the large roof feature), this is the 3rd of 5 bolted routes starting from the beginning of the ramp. More specifically, it's the one that starts directly right of a large detached flake/boulder (NOT off the boulder). It's initially steep, then becomes slabby after an overlap ~20 feet up.

Protection

Single, light set of nuts and cams from fingers to 3", 16 draws for pitch one, a few long slings for pitch two.

Photos

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