Elevation: 1,466 ft
GPS: 40.035, -79.543 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 77,228 total · 499/month
Shared By: truello on Nov 26, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: SWPACC SWPACC, Justin Johnsen, William Sonoma, SCPC
Access Issue: Private Land Details

Description

Breakneck is a small bolted cliff south east of Pittsburgh in the small area known as Breakneck. It can get slightly crowded on weekends, so consider one of the other several crags in the area as a backup plan.

The cliff faces the north east and will receive morning sun. However due to the shade that exists for the majority of the day, snow can remain on this hillside for days after it melts elsewhere. It can be a good crag following a day of rain, thanks to the morning sun and great quality rock. The rock is sandstone and in great condition, as are the bolts and anchors.

A few trad lines exist, but if you want to climb some cracks this definitely is not the area. The route to the far left is listed as a trad route on Tim's page, but is now bolted. This was to increase traffic on the route in hopes of keeping the dirt/moss from returning, and it can still be led with gear.

Eclipse is the most obvious route on the main wall and goes at 5.6. It is where a lot of SWPA climbers led their first route.  One of the recent additions to the area is Apartment 19 which is also a 5.6 on the lower side of The Cannabis Boulder.  This is less committing than Eclipse and now the easiest climb at the area.  Another classic moderate is Mosquito on the left part of the wall. The faint of heart can avoid the 10a bulge by escaping right on a separate 5.8 line of bolts. This is great for those in groups with varying skill levels.

Getting There

Breakneck earns some of its popularity due to its easy 10 minute approach. Parking can be found at the following coordinates:40.03471,-79.543113 Be wary of the place Google maps takes you to upon putting in these coords, it did not take me to parking, instead to strange flat area right off the highway.

Google Maps Directions

Park and walk up the road towards the east a short way until you see a wooded trail that crosses a stream on your right. This trail is just after a red house on your right (note: Tonsef adds that this house has been painted a different color, probably whitish blue?). Follow this logging path up the hill (past a few interesting but dirty boulders) and look for a stone cairn on your right. This marks the beginning of the trail straight up to the rocks.

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Breakneck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 9
3a. Main Bloc Arete
Boulder
V4- 6B
 13
3b. Main Bloc Arete Sit
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
3c. Main Bloc Arete Full
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 76
(9) Eclipse
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Apartment 19
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Bio-fear
Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 22
Fool's Gold
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
(3) Mosquito Variation
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 53
(10) Grab Your Balls
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
The Right Spice
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
(2) Mosquito
Sport, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
(4) New School
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
(7) Burning Balls
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Crimp Fest
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Gas on the Fire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
3a. Main Bloc Arete Bouldering
 9
V3 6A Boulder
3b. Main Bloc Arete Sit Bouldering
 13
V4- 6B Boulder
3c. Main Bloc Arete Full Bouldering
 3
V5 6C Boulder
(9) Eclipse Main Wall
 76
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Apartment 19 Cannabis Boulder (AKA…
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bio-fear Right Wall
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Fool's Gold Right Wall
 22
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
(3) Mosquito Variation Main Wall
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
(10) Grab Your Balls Main Wall
 53
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
The Right Spice Cannabis Boulder (AKA…
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
(2) Mosquito Main Wall
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
(4) New School Main Wall
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport, TR
(7) Burning Balls Main Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Crimp Fest Main Wall
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gas on the Fire Main Wall
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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