Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||truello on Nov 26, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC|
Breakneck is a small bolted cliff and patch of boulders southeast of Pittsburgh in the small area known as Breakneck. It can get slightly crowded on weekends, so consider one of the other several crags in the area as a backup plan.
The cliff faces the north east and will receive morning sun. However due to the shade that exists for the majority of the day, snow can remain on this hillside for days after it melts elsewhere. It can be a good crag following a day of rain, thanks to the morning sun and great quality rock. The rock is sandstone and in great condition, as are the bolts and anchors.
A few trad lines exist, but if you want to climb some cracks this definitely is not the area. The route to the far left is listed as a trad route on Tim's page, but is now bolted. This was to increase traffic on the route in hopes of keeping the dirt/moss from returning, and it can still be led with gear.
Eclipse is the most obvious route on the main wall and goes at 5.6. It is where a lot of SWPA climbers led their first route. One of the recent additions to the area is Apartment 19 which is also a 5.6 on the lower side of The Cannabis Boulder. This is less committing than Eclipse and now the easiest climb at the area. Another classic moderate is Mosquito on the left part of the wall. The faint of heart can avoid the 10a bulge by escaping right on a separate 5.8 line of bolts. This is great for those in groups with varying skill levels.
There are a range of boulders scattered below the main cliffs, including a small number of problems for all abilities, though the area really shines for its high concentration of harder testpieces.
Breakneck earns some of its popularity due to its easy 10 minute approach. Parking can be found at the following coordinates:40.03471,-79.543113. Be wary of the place Google maps takes you to upon putting in these coords, it did not take me to parking, instead to strange flat area right off the highway.
Parking is made possible by a paid lease agreement between SWPACC and the private landowners - there is now a sign there that includes QR code for a link to make a donation. The suggested donation is $3 to $5.
Park and walk up the road towards the east a short way until you see a wooded trail that crosses a stream on your right. This trail is just after a red house on your right (note: Tonsef adds that this house has been painted a different color, probably whitish blue?). Follow this logging path up the hill (past a few interesting but dirty boulders) and look for a stone cairn on your right. This marks the beginning of the trail straight up to the rocks.
Bat Conservation - How You Can Help
See a Bat on a Route, Give Us a Shout!
SWPACC is working with Rob Schorr at Colorado State University to help him spread the word about his bat research. Here’s a message from him about this important work and how, we as climbers, can help.
"Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. We’re a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. We are interested in finding bats because of a new disease called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org) which has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation.
So, if you see bats while climbing, please let us know by emailing us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or visiting our website to learn more at climbersforbats.colostate.edu."
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (warnercnr.colostate.edu/rschorr/)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Classic Climbing Routes at Breakneck
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