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Routes in Main Wall

(1) Old School T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(10) Grab Your Balls S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(2) Mosquito S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(3) Mosquito Variation S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(4) New School S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
(5) Bowling Ball S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
(6) Transfusion S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(7) Burning Balls S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(8) Diesel S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
(9) Eclipse S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
50/50 S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimp Fest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Do You Like Apples S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gas on the Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Revisited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Tim Anderson, Dave Lynn, Bryce 2001
Page Views: 1,336 total, 11/month
Shared By: truello on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Private Land Details

Description

Second line of bolts from the left climb up to the small ledge 8' off the ground. Follow the bolts up to a small ledge. Climb up through a bulge to another ledge and the shuts.

Location

#2 on topo

Protection

5 bolts, double ring anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.10b
Ryan McDermott   Pittsburgh, PA
  5.10b
Agree with Andy P about height. Went back to this recently with my son who is 4'8" and had just sent a 12c/d and onsighted 12a the week before, and the crux on this shut him down for like 10 tries. I'm a solid 5.11 climber, 5'6", and the crux took me four tries this last time, even though I have sent the route a handful of times in the past (and even onsighted it). I certainly wouldn't call someone out if they gave it 10c or 10d. Aug 30, 2017
Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
Outstanding climb, agree that there is ground and ledge fall potential if the belay isn't spot on - but if it is then the route is great. The crux bulge might be a bit height dependent. Shorter people but throw to a slopely hold 5.11ish whereas taller folks might be able to lockoff and reach the solution holds above. Aug 20, 2016
Hyland Markle.
Grenoble, Isere
  5.11a
Hyland Markle.   Grenoble, Isere
  5.11a
I found this to be a great, fun route. However, I think the grade of 5.10a is completely ridiculous. I found this climb to be more in the realm of 5.11a, maybe MAYBE 5.10d.
I agree with Andrew that gaining the first ledge above the first bolt is pretty bouldery, but I could clip the bolt from the first hold so I think ground fall is unlikely.
The face above the first ledge is fun, cruiser, and a little technical.

I must say that the crux bulge section was hard. I'm a solid 5.11 climber and found those moves difficult, and certainly not 5.10a. The crux may feel a little sketchy with the ledge just below it but I think that a dynamic belay would put you in a good position during the fall: Ryan hit the nail on the head.

Fun climb! Aug 9, 2016
Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA
  5.10b
Ryan McDermott   Pittsburgh, PA
  5.10b
Contrary to other comment, this seemed a very sensibly bolted route. Stick clip the first bolt if you need to, but the moves to the ledge are definitely not 5.10. Huge pockets and huge ledge to mantle on. Final bolt is well placed for a fall from the crux--belayed a guy today who fell several times at the crux, including once about four feet out from the bolt, and he didn't come close to hitting the ledge. May 4, 2016
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b PG13
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10b PG13
Kind of a sketchy route. The move up to the first ledge is 5.10 (unless you use the boulders behind you) and probably a ground fall if you don't get it. The crux is after the last bolt and has horrible ledging potential if you fall. The crux movement is great, but otherwise it's a pretty meh route. Oct 13, 2013