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Routes in Main Wall

(1) Old School T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(10) Grab Your Balls S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(2) Mosquito S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(3) Mosquito Variation S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(4) New School S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
(5) Bowling Ball S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
(6) Transfusion S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(7) Burning Balls S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
(8) Diesel S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
(9) Eclipse S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
50/50 S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimp Fest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Do You Like Apples S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gas on the Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Revisited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Todd Damico, Tim Anderson 2001
Page Views: 1,947 total, 16/month
Shared By: truello on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

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Private Land Details

Description

A tricky start off the ground or easier if started from the rock to the right. Climb up easy ledges to a committing crux near the top.

A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.

Location

#10 on topo

Protection

3 bolts, double ring anchors.

Photos

Dan Froelich
Mayfield Hts, OH
 
Dan Froelich   Mayfield Hts, OH
 
I found the crux to be at the top and it is very well protected. Definitely a fun, easy route, with a couple hard moves on sloppers near the top. A ground fall before the first clip would be problematic. We started on the left and it was 5.7ish. Dec 12, 2015
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9+
Fun route. I didn't find the bottom to be particularly daunting; the holds are all good. Crux is definitely at the top and well protected. Oct 13, 2013
Isaac C
  5.9- PG13
Isaac C  
  5.9- PG13
A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it. Mar 12, 2012
Aeon Aki    
Follow this link for beta on how NOT to climb this route. Dec 2, 2009