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(10) Grab Your Balls [Suggest Change]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 45
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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(1) Old School T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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(10) Grab Your Balls S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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(2) Mosquito S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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(3) Mosquito Variation S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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(4) New School S,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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(5) Bowling Ball S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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(6) Transfusion S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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(7) Burning Balls S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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(8) Diesel S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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(9) Eclipse S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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50/50 S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimp Fest S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Do You Like Apples S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gas on the Fire S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Revisited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 40 ft |
| FA: | Todd Damico, Tim Anderson 2001 |
| Page Views: | 2,074 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | truello on Nov 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Private Land
Details
Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Websitepgc.state.pa.us/pgc/game/ma…, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle.
Description [Suggest Change]
A tricky start off the ground or easier if started from the rock to the right. Climb up easy ledges to a committing crux near the top.
A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.
A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.
San Diego, CA
Mayfield Hts, OH