Elevation: 1,215 ft
GPS: 39.869, -79.494 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,776 total · 1,172/month
Shared By: Tim Anderson on Oct 9, 2009
Admins: SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen

Description

Located along the Youghiogheny River in the Laurel Highlands region of Southwestern PA, this State Park, primarily a whitewater town, is now also known as a climbing and bouldering destination. 

Several sport crags are situated along the Yough River Trail, some reaching upwards of 100' in length, easily approachable by bicycling down the rails-to-trail approximately 4 miles. Steep sport climbing is the norm, and as an added bonus, when the pump gets you, you can cool off by heading over the hillside to jump in the river. Also a great spot to hit in the winter as the crags get a great deal of sun.

Boulders can be found throughout the park, but the highest concentrations of developed problems are located at the Pyle (Falls City Pub Boulders), a somewhat gritty textured but excellent boulderfield along the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail, and at the Proving Grounds, a small remote cluster containing some of the most epic highball kinglines on perhaps the finest stone in Southwestern PA.

Getting There

From the West: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 91, Donegal. Turn left onto PA 31 east. Travel about two miles, turn right onto PA 711 and PA 381 south. Travel ten miles to Normalville, turn left onto PA 381 south for 11 miles to Ohiopyle. From the East: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 110, Somerset. Take PA 281 south 25 miles to Confluence. Continue three miles up hill and at the church, turn right onto Sugarloaf Road, SR 2012. Continue nine miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (DC, MD, VA): Take I-270 north to Frederick, then I-70 west to Hancock, then Rt. 40 and I-68 through Cumberland. Take Exit 14 (Keysers Ridge) to Rt. 40 west to Farmington, PA. Turn right onto PA 381 north for eight miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (WV): Take I-79 North to I-68 east. Take Bruceton Mills Exit to Rt. 26 north. At the PA border it becomes PA 281 north. Turn left onto PA 40 west, to Farmington, turn right onto PA 381 north to Ohiopyle. For GPS Units: Use this address for Ohiopyle State Park: 124 Main Street, Ohiopyle PA 15470. This should direct you to the center of the park. Follow signage once you are in the park to find your desired destination.

Bat Conservation - How You Can Help

See a Bat on a Route, Give Us a Shout! 

SWPACC is working with Rob Schorr at Colorado State University to help him spread the word about his bat research. Here’s a message from him about this important work and how, we as climbers, can help.

"Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. We’re a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. We are interested in finding bats because of a new disease called white-nose syndrome (whitenosesyndrome.org) which has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation.

So, if you see bats while climbing, please let us know by emailing us at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting our website to learn more at climbersforbats.colostate.edu."

Thank You!
Rob Schorr

Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program (warnercnr.colostate.edu/rschorr/)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Robert.schorr@colostate.edu

123 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ohiopyle State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 3
29. Money Land
Boulder
V6 7A
 4
44. Piano Man
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 37
Flying Dutchman
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Firefly
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
Solstice aka natural selection
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Arachnophobia
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Easier Said Than Done
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 17
Humpty Dumpty
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Good Day to Die
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
O'Briens line
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Kaya
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Shifticus
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Redline
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 17
Natural Mystic
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Loggia
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
29. Money Land Falls City Boul… > Main Area
 3
V6 7A Boulder
44. Piano Man Falls City Boul… > S Side
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Flying Dutchman School House Crag
 37
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Firefly School House Crag
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Solstice aka natural selection Maple Wall
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Arachnophobia School House Crag
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Easier Said Than Done Bruner Run
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Humpty Dumpty School House Crag
 17
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Good Day to Die School House Crag
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
O'Briens line Bruner Run
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Kaya School House Crag
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shifticus Maple Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Redline Bruner Run
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Natural Mystic School House Crag
 17
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Loggia Maple Wall
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ohiopyle State Park »

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