Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Creature Wall

Arachnid Traction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arachnophobic Reaction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cujo T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gob Hoblin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Bat Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nightmare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Octo-Pussy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pet Cemetary T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shining, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Description

Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes.

The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.11, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further.

The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain.

On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you.

Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.

Getting There

Fall 2016: There is a new approach to the Creature Wall. The old approach was flooded due to beaver activity, so the DEC created this new approach. Park at the Giant Trailhead (pretty much where you used to park) and follow the trail up giant. Go past the sign-in kiosk, then about 300' more to where the trail angles to the right. Turn left off the trail and follow a herd path across a stream, then on a level bench to where it joins the old trail. Continue on the old trail uphill to the cliff, arriving in front of Gob Hoblin.

It takes about 10-15 minutes, same as the old approach, but minus the wet feet!

11 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Creature Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Creature Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Octo-Pussy
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
Gob Hoblin
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 33
Jump Bat Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Arachnid Traction
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
The Shining
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 17
Christine
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Octo-Pussy
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Gob Hoblin
 41
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Jump Bat Crack
 33
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Arachnid Traction
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Shining
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Christine
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Creature Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Do not take the advice of this location being wet lightly. I've been out there after it hasn't rained for a few days and there has still been dripping water on many of the routes. The lower sections in the shade of the trees don't dry quickly. Jul 14, 2009
JSH

JSH    
Routes are all pretty close to full 30m here -- you may want to carry extras in the finger/hand cam sizes. May 31, 2016

More About The Creature Wall

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (9)

All Photos Within The Creature Wall (6)

Most Popular · Newest · Random