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Elevation: 1,848 ft 563 m
GPS: 44.1411, -73.74312
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,568 total · 116/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

Nestled in the woods off the east side of Route 73 (across from Chapel Pond) is a great, little crag with several quality routes.

The aptly named Creature Wall hosts a range of climbing from 5.5 to 5.10, and offers several routes referencing Steven King novels, such as "Christine", "Firestarter", "Pet Cemetery", and "Cujo". This cliff has the highest concentration of 5.8s (7 total) in Keene Valley, so if you are looking to test your meddle at said grade, look no further.

The cliff sits among a thick, forested hillside below Washbowl and is oriented toward the west. As a result, it offers shade in the morning and warm afternoons. To compliment this, all the climbs are single pitch, thus offering a nice option for those wanting to take it down a notch and enjoy a "mellow" day at the crag. The climbing is a healthy mixture of thin face and vertical crack climbing (from thin fingers to paw-swallowing handcracks), with the majority of the routes clocking in at around the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This is not a crag to visit when it rains, nor can you expect it to dry out quickly after it does rain.

On nice weekends in the summer and fall, expect to have some neighbors at this cliff. Because of its proximity to the road, and the ease of toproping, it is occasionally the site of guided groups. This cliff is also along the approach trail to the Washbowl Cliffs, so you may also see some traffic from people climbing at the crags above you.

Enjoy the climbing here for its quality of cracks, variety of movement, and beautiful views from the top of the cliff.

Getting There Suggest change

Fall 2016: There is a new approach to the Creature Wall. The old approach was flooded due to beaver activity, so the DEC created this new approach. Park at the Giant Trailhead (pretty much where you used to park) and follow the trail up Giant. Go past the sign-in kiosk, then about 300' more to where the trail angles to the right. Turn left off the trail and follow a herd path across a stream, then on a level bench to where it joins the old trail. Continue on the old trail uphill to the cliff, arriving in front of Gob Hoblin.

It takes about 10-15 minutes, same as the old approach, but minus the wet feet!

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Creature Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 64
Gob Hoblin
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 95
Arachnid Traction
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Jump Bat Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Diamondback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
The Shining
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Christine
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gob Hoblin
 64
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Arachnid Traction
 95
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Jump Bat Crack
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Diamondback
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Shining
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Christine
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Creature Wall »

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