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Routes in The Creature Wall

Arachnid Traction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arachnophobic Reaction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cujo T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gob Hoblin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Bat Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Octo-Pussy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pet Cemetary T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shining, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Rosencrans, Dave Szot, and Dennis Luther, 5/28/84
Page Views: 2,929 total · 23/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Of all the routes on the Creature Wall, this one sees the most traffic.

On the left side of the cliff are two parallel cracks that diagonally split the upper portion of the cliff. Arachnid Traction starts on the face below the cracks in front of a large, nice birch tree and finishes in the right hand crack to the summit.

Begin by climbing up the face using the obvious crack system until the first opportunity to step right arises.

Step right on some balancy terrain, and jam the right of the two classic handcracks. This crack is about 20 feet long and is rather sustained. It also presents very little in the way of rests for the climber, so rest up before beginning this final, cruxy section.

Surmount the crack and climb up over a final, small bulge to the trees where a tree anchor can be built. (Presently, there exists some old webbing and a rap ring.)

Location [Suggest Change]

The left side of the cliff. Arachnid Traction climbs the right-hand crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A standard rack to a #3 Camalot. Include a couple extra yellow, red, and green Camalots for the crux.

Photos

doligo
  5.8+
doligo  
  5.8+
The crux hand crack at the top was a tad too big for my hands - I had to jam my arms. Pumpy. Lower section is easy but awkward climbing. Jul 6, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8+
Stellar single pitch moderate. Top 25 feet sustained. Many small 5.6-5.7 crux moves before getting into the main business. Not a lot of single pitch crag climbing in the ADKs like the Creature Walls, where the routes are long and sustained with interesting movement for the duration. Jul 12, 2015
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
 
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
 
Not to miss climb, the last 25 feet made this feel like it should be one of the top classics of chapel pond pass, if not the ADK. Took a 25 foot whipper blowing the top out!

Gear beta - a 0.75, 1 and 2 protect the last 25 foot crux of sustained hands. Not to miss climb, was one of the best pitches I've done in the ADK. Aug 11, 2015
Clare Angelora  
  5.8
Rap rings and webbing were gone as of 9/21/17. Oct 10, 2017
There's an anchor higher up if you top out at the tree and scramble over the ledge. Quicklink on a loop of webbing and a loop of cord. The webbing was left mid Oct '17. Oct 25, 2017

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