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Routes in The Creature Wall

Arachnid Traction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arachnophobic Reaction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Christine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cujo T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamondback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gob Hoblin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump Bat Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Octo-Pussy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pet Cemetary T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shining, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1988 Tom Rosecrans & Ken Wright
Page Views: 73 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Dec 7, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This rarely-climbed route is actually quite good. It once had two bolts, which were removed. It still protects adequately well (PGish). It can be toproped from trees at the top of Diamondback, perhaps with a directional.

The initial section isn't well protected, but it's easier, and you can always bail left for gear on the neighboring route.

Climb face to ledge, then up to a crack just right of Arachnid Traction. Go up this until you can traverse right 5' to a thin vertical fingercrack, which is the meat of the route. Up this to where it fades (good nuts), then up a face to a slot with good gear (whew!). Continue up face to some jugs, then move right to the crack finish of Diamondback.

Belay/rappel from a tree with a fixed anchor.

Location

A few feet right of Arachnid Traction.

Protection

Standard rack to #1 Camalot.

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