GPS: 34.003, -106.991 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,005 total · 73/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 23, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

A nice spring / fall crag with a wide variety of routes. Around 30 routes contain a good variety of trad and sport climbs from 5.7 to 5.13.

This area is North facing so primarily shaded making it great for spring / fall and cold in the winter. May still be hot in the middle of summer.

In general the routes here are short and bouldery with hard starts to easier finishes. Most of the routes are vertical to slightly overhanging.

Getting There

From the Box Parking lot, hike directly down the streambend. Hike almost to the road and you will see North Wall on your right. This is the backside of Red Wall. Find a small trail starting out of the streambend up the short hill to the base. Trail ends just left of the Corner Block. Approach time is about 10 minutes.

Climbs

Climbs from right to left.

Liposuction Massacre, Rhonda Savage St. George 5.10+ (Starts behind corner block)
Or Dare 5.10b Sport, 2nd Pitch of "The Truth"
The Truth 5.7 Trad
Direct on the Truth 5.9 Trad
Project, May have been done by Timy at 5.14?
Alarm Arm 5.11+ Trad
Fatty 5.11b
Red Licorice 5.11b
Bashart 5.12c
Loser 5.13a, shared finish with Bashart
Maria de la Sangria 5.11+
Unknown 1 5.11
Grijavla Route 5.12c, listed as "Loser" in the RC NM Book.

There is a 30 foot break in the climbs here

Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) 5.13c/d
Boss Hog 5.12c
Rock Trooper 5.9, 1 bolt, no anchor.
Black Crack 5.10+ Trad
Arch of Evil 5.10+ Trad
Jack be Quick (Candlestick) 5.12c
Grease Mechanic 5.12+, Climbs up Thin Arete, Could use finger size cam
Unknown Slab Route, 12-?? climbs up past 4 bolts to anchors shared with "Grease Mechanic"

The next three routes are various linkups starting in the crack of "Totem" and finishing at the anchors of "Grease Mechanic"

Box Baby 5.10b, Start in left crack, and at weakness traverse across slab to join "Grease Mechanic" at third bolt.
Modern Day Contrivances 5.11+, Shared start with "Box Baby", after joining "Grease Mechanic" break left for 3rd and 4th bolt of the unknown slab route. Kind of pointless now that the full slab route is bolted.
Box Frenzy 5.10a, Climb crack, then move right towards the top to join last 2? bolts of the slab route and anchors of "Grease Mechanic".
Totem 5.7 Trad, climbs up the corner, no anchor
Tomahawk 5.9 Trad, climbs through the small roof, no anchor.

The next 5 climbs are before Z crack, however they are listed after Z crack in the Rock Climbing New Mexico guide.

Unknown "10c", 5.11c
Power House 5.11c
Crystal Ball 5.11b
Unknown 2 5.10a
Unknown 3 5.10b
The Z Crack 5.8 Trad

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Or Dare
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Fatty
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Red Licorice
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Bashart
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Grijavla Route
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Loser
Sport
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
 5
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Or Dare
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Fatty
 17
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Red Licorice
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bashart
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Grijavla Route
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Loser
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Minas Boreas (Tower of the…
 5
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Wall »

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