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Routes in North Wall

Alarm Arm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bashart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boss Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Crystal Ball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct on the Truth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fatty S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grease Mechanic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grijavla Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liposuction Massacre, Rhonda Savage St. George S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Or Dare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power House S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Licorice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown "10c" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 3 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 491 total, 5/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 25, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A low first bolt somewhat protects a difficult start on bad holds, keep it together and work through slopers to reach the second bolt. More trickiness past the third bolt leads to a nice rest at the fourth bolt. There are no really hard moves through this section, just very technical body position dependent moves on bad slopers and pinches.

At the fourth bolt undercling left on slightly loose rock, to clip the 5th bolt. Pull some very powerful moves to get established on the headwall, then commit to the slightly heady finish on thin holds. Fortunately a nice jug is present for clipping the anchors.

There are some loose holds on the upper section in particular the blocks jammed in the small corner to the left of the bolt line.

Location

Right side of North Wall, between "Red Licorice" and "Loser". Look for the well chalked start on slopers, with an interesting hanger placement on the first bolt.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
Really good. Sustained in difficulty with some rests, but never super hard for the grade. Mar 16, 2015