Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 531 total · 4/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 25, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

A low first bolt somewhat protects a difficult start on bad holds, keep it together and work through slopers to reach the second bolt. More trickiness past the third bolt leads to a nice rest at the fourth bolt. There are no really hard moves through this section, just very technical body position dependent moves on bad slopers and pinches.

At the fourth bolt undercling left on slightly loose rock, to clip the 5th bolt. Pull some very powerful moves to get established on the headwall, then commit to the slightly heady finish on thin holds. Fortunately a nice jug is present for clipping the anchors.

There are some loose holds on the upper section in particular the blocks jammed in the small corner to the left of the bolt line.

Location

Right side of North Wall, between "Red Licorice" and "Loser". Look for the well chalked start on slopers, with an interesting hanger placement on the first bolt.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c
Really good. Sustained in difficulty with some rests, but never super hard for the grade. Mar 16, 2015