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Routes in North Wall

Alarm Arm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bashart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boss Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Crystal Ball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct on the Truth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fatty S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Grease Mechanic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grijavla Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liposuction Massacre, Rhonda Savage St. George S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Loser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Or Dare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power House S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Licorice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown "10c" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 2 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 3 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield & Chris Eckstein
Page Views: 353 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder up or Stick clip the high first bolt. From here make cool moves laybacking and underclinging flakes past the second bolt. I found either the second or third bolt to be far right and difficult to clip. Make a few more moves past the third bolt and hit a nice rest. Climb easier ground to the anchors. Around the last bolt there is alot of small loose rock.

This route seems new as there is still alot of loose rock. Beware as my partner knocked a large (20 lb) chunk off.

Location

Between an unknown 10c slab route and Crystal Ball. Towards the upper end of the cliff, starts in a small recess behind a boulder.

Protection

5? Bolts to anchors.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Chris and Lance bolted this and the line to the left thinking they would be good warmups and they ended up being hard so they bolted the 2 lines to the left. According to Chris they never climbed this line, so who knows if it had even been done before your ascent? Probably, but possibly only a couple of times even though it is close to 10 years old. Mar 31, 2009

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