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Routes in North Wall

Alarm Arm T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bashart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Boss Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Crystal Ball S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct on the Truth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fatty S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grease Mechanic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grijavla Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Liposuction Massacre, Rhonda Savage St. George S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Or Dare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power House S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Licorice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Truth, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown "10c" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 3 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 248 total, 4/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 17, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A very steep right leaning crack line.

Make the same bouldery opening moves as Fatty. Once near the first bolt of that route move right and follow the slightly right leaning crack through a difficult bulge and a weird corner. A few jams suplement the face holds. The top of the route is quite a bit easier than the bottom.

Location

This route is the obvious right leaning steep crack at the lower right end of North Wall. Just right of the 2 steep bolted 5.11 climbs, sharing the start with Fatty, the right hand of the 2 lines.

Protection

Cams and stoppers from small to thin hands, a hand size or slightly larger piece could go in high but a smaller piece works as well. Finishing at a bolted anchor on a slab.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Today I arrived at the anchor to find the bolts with nothing else on them. I rigged a sling with a couple of biners to lower off, but the anchor could really use an upgrade. If you want to do this it would be nice to bring some chain and quick-links. Also you will probably need a knife to get the webbing off the hangers (it's tied directly to them, not the best but working with what I had in my pack at the time). Mar 17, 2012