Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Chris Eckstien and Lee Brinckerhoff 3/2009
Page Views: 1,568 total · 11/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A new longest hard route at Socorro. Harder than Sinister Dane or Ride the Lightning but not really sure by how much. Moderate 5.11+ climbing up to a rest then a very technical V9ish crux through the 5th to 7th bolt. Easy section up to a final hard bit from the 9th bolt to over the lip of the roof, might be V6.

Stick clip the first bolt or lean across form the left and clip it. Make big moves up past the next 2 bolts on sidepulls and pinches with a pocket thrown in, to gain a sloping shelf with a jug in it. Move up to clip the 4th and get a rest on a hollow sounding undercling. Have a long draw on the 5th bolt or you will not be able to clip it with your feet on the shelf. Move up into an undercling right to clip then move out right to sloping sidepulls and gastons on the rounded arete. Use careful body positioning to worm your way around to a jug out right and clip the 6th. Move back left onto the arete on more sloping holds. Then big moves out left to edges to get over onto the slab and the 7th bolt. From the 7th to the 9th the climbing is less than vertical and you can rest as much as you'd like. At the 9th you stand up into a sloping sidepull/undercling with the left and reach way out right to a ramp. At the top of the ramp is a good edge to clip the 10th bolt. A huge move gains the arete out right, there is an edge around the corner that is good just below where the roof starts. Surmount the roof with a huge move to some not so good holds then move left to jugs. Mantle over easily and clip the chains.

Location

The right side of the large pillar in the middle of north wall.

Protection

11 bolts and anchors with biners, preclip the first as the first move is comitting.

As of now there are 2, 7th bolts, you want to clip the one on the left.

Photos