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Routes in Crag 1 aka Pinnacle Rock

Crag 1 Slab TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Overhang TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lotsa Pockets T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Madcap TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
O.H.C. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Offwidth TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Short Job TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Fine TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This crag is probably the 3rd tallest of these rocks at 25 feet tall and faces north It has some decent climbing.

L->R:
A. OHB, 8.
B. Short Job, 7-8, 1p, 25', TR.
C. So Fine, 8-9, 1p, 25', TR.
D. Easy Overhang, 6-7, 1p, 25', TR.
E. Delirium, 9.
F. Crag 1 Slab, 6-8, 1p, 25', TR.
GF. Alternate start to Crag 1 Slab, 6.
H. Offwidth, 7, 1p, TR.
I. Black Hole, 2.
J. Fern, 3 (can extend).
K. Facelift, 3.
L. Quick Descent, 0.
M. Lotsa Pockets, 3, 1p, 35', TR or gear.
N. Beginner's Class, 4.
O. Madcap, 4-6, 1p, 35', TR.
PO. Madcap Direct, 10.
Q. Unknown, 12.
R. O.H.C., 7-8, 1p, 35', TR. photo
S. One More Time, 7.
T. The Golden Road (traverse), 10.

To the right are some boulder problems.

Per Curtis Tripp: this crag has been noted as Pinnacle Rock on a DCR Middlesex Fells trail map.

Getting There

This is the first crag you will encounter from the parking area. Head along the trail, go right at the first fork. Look right.

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